Using the other two corners of CCMT and DCMT inserts

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Lindo

Lindo
Joined
Nov 17, 2013
Messages
63
Reaction score
10
Photos show typical CCMT and DCMT insert holders.
Note the broken corners.
I made a holder that will use the normal redundant corners.
Works well for turning (not to a shoulder) and facing.
Chose brass as the holder required 2 x 2.5 mm x .45 tapped holes
for the torx screws.
The cost of buying new tips for an amateur senior citizen) can be out of my budget.
< https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5951753106140935281 >

John
Spain
 
Very clever - I sympathize on the budget issue.

Why did you choose brass instead of steel? Also, if you don't mind my asking, where did you purchase your original insert holders?
 
I chose brass,as it would withstand any tip impact on the shoulders
and the holding screw is 2.5 m x 0.45 m pitch,I not keen on tapping
steel that small.
I machine a lot of tooling out of brass,expensive but great to work with.
The angular machining has to be very accurate.
The original tool holders came from Amadeal UK when I bought the lathe 6 years ago.


Regards
John
of Spain.
 
Thanks John - I was wondering about the tapping part myself. Working with brass is a joy - if only it didn't cost so much. 12L14 steel works nicely on a small lathe or mill also (haven't tried tapping such a small tap in it though).

Still looking for a set of decent, not too high priced index holders.
 
The cost of buying new tips for an amateur senior citizen) can be out of my budget.

Agreed, this is why I only use insert tooling when I have to and rely on one of my Tangential toolholders for most stuff.
 
This is my latest Tangential holder, works very nicely and you can turn and face without moving the Toolholder provided it's set at 90 degrees initially.

IMGP1711.jpg


I use a specially made gauge for height setting, it's quick and easy.

IMGP1776_zps979b8685.jpg
 
Very nice to.
If that tool is homemade you have done an excellent job.
I have a mind to make one next year.for general purpose machining.Never used one,so i will give it a try.
I have some doubt if my swinging tool holder could be adapted to fit.I dont think I have enough clearance to the base that bolts to the cross slide.
Nice looking tool height setter.

John
Spain
 
Yes it's home made John. I just machined it as I went along and it turned out quite well.
 
Omnimill, your tangential tool holders are works of art; they would not be out of place in a display cabinet.

Mine are much rougher but I made them so that the top of the holder is exactly on the centreline of the lathe so I just turn them upside down on a flat surface to set the tool height.

Jim
 
That's a very clever idea Jim, wish I'd thought of that!
It's the sandblasted finish that makes them look good, I use it on a lot of stuff!
 
I made one of them and it worked good on light cuts to about 10 th but when I went to a 30 th cut it would move. I used two set screws to hold mine in place maybe that is why mine moved. I just got disappointed and put It to the side. with yours have you had any movement when making big cuts.
 
No problems with mine re: rigidity.
I looked originally at the frame type and opted to make my own that bolted
down onto the cross slide.
The part that rotates fits snugly into the base,and 2 balls that run in a vee track and can be adjusted for tension.
The underside of the base has a ball race fitted.and a spigot underneath that connects with the bearing and is locked in place so it can't lift up.
Sorry the photo's are not to clear on this subject.But may help.
< https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5678442248754209393 >
Living quite close to a military port,I have access to a few machine shops where I buy my brass and bronze from there scrap bins.The tool can be made in steel

John
Spain
 
Using just 2 screws to stop the tip rotating is not a good idea in my opinion.
Machine the correct angular recess and use the TORX screw,you then should have no problems.
I have machined steel taking 2 mm dia. cuts no problem.
I have better material removal results with the DCM tips (125 Deg corners).
I believe the angular tip approach to the metal is less,than CCMT IE less force required but CCMT still works good,it's free corners remember,so a bit more
time spent on the toolholder you are producing the betterIt's money in the bank after that.
I have attached a link of ISCAR geometry.
< http://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Family.aspx?fnum=868&mapp=IS&app=960 >
Somewhere on there web is a PDF file of the tip geometry you can download.
John
Spain
 

Latest posts

Back
Top