Tool sizes

[JimM]

Hi all

Finally got my Atlas 10" lathe up and running so am looking at getting some tooling for it.

In general do you match the tool size to the work or to the lathe. ie If I'll be mainly working on small engine parts etc should I get 1/4" shank HSS tooling or as I've got a slightly bigger lathe than the mini versions do I by bigger tooling 1/2" say

Cheers

Jim

 

[Maryak]

Jim,

IMHO match the tool size to the lathe. You can always make a big tool smaller, the reverse is not so easy :. The size of HSS will depend on how you plan to hold it and what type of tool post you plan on using.

In my case, my lathe is 12" US, It has a 4 post tool post, for tools in a tool holder in one of the posts I use 1/4" HSS, for free standing (just the HSS and packing) I use 1/2" HSS

Hope this helps ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob

 

[steamer]

Hi Jim,

1/4 and 3/8 shank HSS tooling will work just fine on an Atlas. I would need to know more about your tool holders/tool post to be more specific. I would not spend a lot of money on tungsten tooling as an Atlas will really shine with HSS, and keeping the tools sharp and learning the tool geometry is probably more important at this point.

First thing I would do is invest in your education. There are several books on the subject.

Lindsay publications will have some if not all of them too.

http://www.lindsaybks.com/bks/lathebk/index.html

South Bend's is a classic. I highly recommend it.

Another Lindsay book I really like is Lorus J Milne's "Machine Shop Methods". It is a bit more modern than the South Bends ( not by much) and I think it reads well. He has plans in the book for some useful lathe attachments that would keep you busy too.

To get you started, I have attached a Lathe manual from a company called "Hercus". They made clones of the SouthBend and it's a decent book.....free too!

Atlas had a great lathe Manual and it should be available either on line or by ebay ect. It is very Germain to not only YOUR lathe, but other lathes in general and it will really lay a nice foundation of learning.

Of course, there is this forum and the incredible internet too. There is a lot of experience here on this forum. Ask away! Be a sponge! But I would get your head wrapped around a couple of good books.

The 10" Atlas can be a very capable and versatile lathe. I owned a late 1940's 10F for 10 years and I really loved it. I did tons with it and learned more!

Welcome!

Dave




View attachment Hercus TextBook of Turning.pdf

 

[kvom]

When I started night school 6 months ago, my first class was to grind a 1/2" HSS turning/facing bit for a CXA holder. I seem to remember it took me close to an hour.

Last night I ground 3 different 3/8" bits in about half an hour (RH, LH, Threading). They will be used on my 12" swing lathe with AXA holders.

 

[shred]

When I started night school 6 months ago, my first class was to grind a 1/2" HSS turning/facing bit for a CXA holder. I seem to remember it took me close to an hour.

Last night I ground 3 different 3/8" bits in about half an hour (RH, LH, Threading). They will be used on my 12" swing lathe with AXA holders.

There's a lot to be said for grinding on small tool bits.. 1/4" bits are good for that. Get some larger ones too for when you need the rigidity.

 

[dwentz]

It is going to depend on your tool post size, If you have an adjustable tool post the rule is to use the largest tool that you can for the job at hand. That being said the two most common sizes in the home shop are 1/4 and 3/8. I would recommend ordering 8 blanks of each size. They are inexpensive, and it is nice to have some extras to grind custom profiles. You will find that you have your favorites, and some times its best when you are new to not use them for turning, but to keep it as a pattern. After a bit of time you will remember how to grind your favorites, and do not need to keep the patterns.

I also keep a set of tools for brass seporate from my other cutting bits. These are mostly 1/4 inch tools, and I keep the tops of them flat, as to not dig in and grab the brass, much the same way we modify our drill bits for drilling in brass.

It is true that the smaller bits are faster to grind.

I also have some 1/2 inch bits that I use for larger jobs, and I use some 1/8 inch also in boring bars, and for some small work from time to time.

Dale

 

[ScottM]

Dale,

I use 1/4 inch HSS in a 15 inch swing lathe.

Hold it with some of these. They work great.

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Tooling/ToolHolderInsert/toolholderinsert.html

- Scott

 

[Holescreek]

This is just my opinion but it is based on 28 years of machining. You are only limited in you tooling choices by the maximum opening in you tool holders. If you are using an AXA style quick change post you are good up to 5/8" tall tools (if memory serves). Using the largest tool you can will add to the rigidity of your setup and decrease vibration/chatter. Remember, the properly sharpened bit is only touching on the cutting edge and the work doesn't care if its from an 1/8" or 1/2" tool. I have a lot of lathe tooling from 1/8"-3/4" HSS and insert cutters. I choose my HSS cutter based on how easy it will fit where I need it and how much time I want to spend grinding the shape I want. Small diameters only require smaller contact area.

 

[JimM]

Thanks for all the advice guys some good info there.


With regards to toolposts would the economy set here be any good (4th item down)

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Quick_Change_Toolposts_69.html

or should I really spend more for the piston type further down the page



Think I'll also get some 1/4" HSS to use as a reference for grinding my own - I did get a load of short lengths of tooling of various sizes with the lathe so can tidy these up when I know what I'm aiming for.

Thanks for the suggestions of books, I do have a couple already which I've read but think that things will click a bit better once I actually start attacking the metal

Cheers

Jim

 

[steamer]

Hi Jim,

The center height of the Atlas from the top of the compound is 1.187 factory stock.

The units I saw look like they may need to have a spacer made....maybe.

An AXA piston post won't fit without a compound modification. If the compound has a box section, it might, but if it looks like the one in my photo, it won't. The crown in the top of the compound will not let an AXA post sit on the T-slot of the compound.

The tool post shown on mine was made by me, and is a copy of a Hardinge. It is similar to the dovetail posts in your link.

I would take a piece of cardboard, cut it into a square the length and width of the toolpost that you want to buy, and verify that it will fit on top of the compound before you by it. Also use a scale to determine what the center height of the lathe is with respect to the top of the compound. Then you can have a talk with the people selling the toolpost.

Hope that helps,

Dave

 

[JimM]

Hi Dave

Thanks for the heads up, I've had a look at my lathe and the compound is flat across the top so hopefully that should keep my choices open. A very rough measuring puts the centre height at the 1.187" you mentioned so will bear the spacer issue in mind. Either way I would need to open the toolpost centre hole out to 1/2" to use the current T-Bolt but that's no big deal.

Is the only advantage of the piston type holders their ease of repositioning? If that's all there is in it then I think the 'economy model' would be fine for me

Cheers

Jim

 

[GailInNM]

While either should work fine, the piston tool post gives you more options in the future should you want more tool holders. It appears to take the standard AXA type tool holders which are made in many quality, price grades and styles. Several different parting tool holders and knurling holders for example. I have been building toys quite a while and have built up quite a collection of tool holders. It is very nice to be able to have both a 1mm, 1/16 inch and 3/32 inch parting tools already mounted, calibrated and ready to use for what ever project I am working on.
Gail in NM,USA

 

[steamer]

A locking dovetail was a good a enough design for Hardinge to put on their HLV's........It worked very well for me....you could do worse.


I like having two positions on the tool holder ( front and side). Others don't, I should start a thread on that....

Dave

 

[steamer]

Hi

Gail's comments have merit ( they always do), its nice to be able to carry your tooling forward when you "upgrade" to a bigger better lathe some years down the road....one needs to balance that with the needs of the machine "at hand"

If an AXA fits on reliably and isn't crowding things that should work great going forward as my 12" Logan has an AXA wedge type. I really wish I could have had that on my Atlas, but I just couldn't get it to work

Jim, you might want to touch base with the Atlas Yahoogroup, as they are very lathe specific and may be more up on the current Atlas toolpost trends than I, Things have changed alot in the last 5 years....

Unless of course there is another Atlas lurker out there that may want to contribute?

Dave

 

[Holescreek]

I milled a portion of the radiused top of the compound off of my grandfather's 10" Atlas to accomodate and AXA post. There isn't a bunch to come off and it probably could have been done with a file. -Mike

 

[steamer]

I milled a portion of the radiused top of the compound off of my grandfather's 10" Atlas to accomodate and AXA post. There isn't a bunch to come off and it probably could have been done with a file. -Mike

Where there you have it...Thanks Mike.....where were you 12 years ago! ;D

Dave