Slitting Saw Arbor

[chucketn]

I need to make an arbor for a slitting saw with 1” diameter mounting hole. How much bigger diameter arbor do I need? Will 1 1/8” material be enough or should I use 1 ¼” and why?
Arbor will be straight shank, ½” diameter, with a larger piece threaded on.

Chuck in E. TN

 

[MachineTom]

The 1" arbors I have are 1.500 D nut and spacers, needs a key to drive the blade.

 

[chucketn]

What is a D nut?
I don't think I want to incorperate the key until I have more experience using the saws. I would rather the saw spin on the arbor than have it jam and tear up the mill.

Chuck in E. TN

 

[cfellows]

I would with at least 1.25" stock. I've used arbors with no key in the past and rarely have a problem with the blade spinning on the arbor. Thicker blades could be a problem though. I typically use an R8 adjustable arbor like this:

The OD is 1.25"

Chuck

 

[MachineTom]

The first arbor I had was as Chucks, not satisfactory with me, There was not enough grip without the key, Iwas using 3-4" saws, slipped or sucked in that screw, super tight.

 

[Lakc]

slipped or sucked in that screw, super tight.

Oh boy does it ever. I ruined one already, and am not happy with its replacement. If I ever see one with a key, ill buy it, and may actually consider the saws a good alternative instead of a frightening one.

 

[mzetati]

I don't think I want to incorperate the key until I have more experience using the saws. I would rather the saw spin on the arbor than have it jam and tear up the mill.

Chuck,
that's agreed.
Still, saws may explode (literally) even without being keyed.
Learnt it yesterday night.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=14631.0

Marcello

 

[tel]

Yep, 1.250" minimum, preferably 1.5" - give a much more secure hold on the saw. I never make mine with provision for a key, just rely on friction. So far no real problems & I've used right up to 5" dia saws that way.

 

[chucketn]

Well here is what I came up with.

http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Slitting saw arbor/

It holds the 2 3/4”saw good and tight, and while still on the lathe I checked runout. Zero!
I did not add a key as I didn’t have the right size stock. If it becomes an issue, I’ll add it later.

Thanks to all who had input, I appreciate your help. I did not make any drawings, just worked from what I had in the possibles box. The shank is drill rod, the body a piece from Dad’s collection that already had the ½” hole. The cap is a slice off of a 1 1/8” mystery metal bar, again inherited from Dad.

I will test it today on my mill, cutting some ¼” ali plate.

Chuck in E. TN

 

[jct842]

I would with at least 1.25" stock. I've used arbors with no key in the past and rarely have a problem with the blade spinning on the arbor. Thicker blades could be a problem though. I typically use an R8 adjustable arbor like this:

The OD is 1.25"

Chuck

2 questions chuck, is that r8 arbor very expensive and is it available in #2morse? I really like how it can accept most any saw blade. John

 

[cfellows]

The R8 arbor is between $20 & $30. I've not seen anything like that with an MT2. You could probaly modify the R8 version by cutting a #2 morse taper on it. I don't think these are hardened steel. R8 tapers have a 7/16 x 20 thread in the back for the draw bar.

Chuck

 

[tel]

Looks good to me! You have done yours opposite to the way I do mine tho'. I put the spigot on the main body, with the cavity in the cap piece, M6 socket cap screw for holding 'em together and the shank turned 0.500" for holding in a (M3) collet.

 

[MachineTom]

Chuck, The blade you've shown is rightly called a slotting saw, designed to create shallow slots like in a screw head. It has no rake to the teeth (appears so anyway). In cutting a deep kerf like you intend to in the 1/2 AL, the saw disk will drag awful, mix in some sticky AL chips and jamming is likely to occur. It could shatter as the other poster stated, not a good situation. A slitting saw has rake to the teeth, and a thinned disk, this reduces the drag, and provides clearance for chips.

The photos I posted in your previous arbor thread, were of a slitting saw, you can note the differences. A slitting saw can really cut quickly, that bronze is 7/8 by 1" single pass, about 20 seconds to cut. 80 rpm