Sieg SC-3 Lathe, Taper Bearing Fitment
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G, well done, isn't it mice when something goes right and turns out as good as you thought it would do.
Barry, the email I sent to you was returned to me as the attachment was too large, 6mb. It seems like the Antipodes has a limited download system.
I will send you a link through Dropbox using the PM system, so read your messages.
The tapers are dead easy, just follow my pictures and text, once you have the first one cut, you use that to set up for cutting the second, that way they are both exactly the same. Use brass instead of ali bronze as I did, you will find it should last for many years.
BTW, Chucks version uses a better adjusting screw than mine, so maybe you can cobble a bit out of each post.
John
Barry, the email I sent to you was returned to me as the attachment was too large, 6mb. It seems like the Antipodes has a limited download system.
I will send you a link through Dropbox using the PM system, so read your messages.
The tapers are dead easy, just follow my pictures and text, once you have the first one cut, you use that to set up for cutting the second, that way they are both exactly the same. Use brass instead of ali bronze as I did, you will find it should last for many years.
BTW, Chucks version uses a better adjusting screw than mine, so maybe you can cobble a bit out of each post.
John
Last edited:
Barry,
Did you download the pictures from the link I sent to you?
I have a limited size I can hold on Dropbox, so if you have them, I can delete them and put something else in their place as I do have a couple of people waiting for bits to be sent.
John
Did you download the pictures from the link I sent to you?
I have a limited size I can hold on Dropbox, so if you have them, I can delete them and put something else in their place as I do have a couple of people waiting for bits to be sent.
John
Hi All,
New back plate, and 5" 3jaw chuck fitted and setup. Old one had damage in the scroll and would lock up every now and then. Mic is in 10,000"
Cheers
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u5TPqtfoUY[/ame]
New back plate, and 5" 3jaw chuck fitted and setup. Old one had damage in the scroll and would lock up every now and then. Mic is in 10,000"
Cheers
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u5TPqtfoUY[/ame]
Just going back a bit to when you fitted the taper bearings.
I have not seen anyone going the other way and fitting solid phos bronze ones.
You may laugh and scoff at what looks like a step back in time, but when you see the results from plain bearings, you wouldn't.
I noticed straight away when I uprated my Atlas 10F to a Timken head from a plain bearing one. With plain bearings you could get finishes like they had been ground then chrome plated, they were fantastic, with the head with bearings, they come out like most machines nowadays, where you are chasing a better surface finish.
If ever I went to decorative work, the first thing I would do would be to pick up a mini lathe and fit solid bearings.
Not trying to deflect the post, just attempting to show people that sometimes we go backwards when going forwards.
John
I have not seen anyone going the other way and fitting solid phos bronze ones.
You may laugh and scoff at what looks like a step back in time, but when you see the results from plain bearings, you wouldn't.
I noticed straight away when I uprated my Atlas 10F to a Timken head from a plain bearing one. With plain bearings you could get finishes like they had been ground then chrome plated, they were fantastic, with the head with bearings, they come out like most machines nowadays, where you are chasing a better surface finish.
If ever I went to decorative work, the first thing I would do would be to pick up a mini lathe and fit solid bearings.
Not trying to deflect the post, just attempting to show people that sometimes we go backwards when going forwards.
John
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
Actually the bearings on my recently acquired but ancient little Myford ML10 are cast iron whilst the nose bearing on the Super7B is phosphor bronze.
Most of the answer lies in the relative bearing surface areas. Oddly, it surprising but there are a lot of full size propeller stern tubes made from - lignum vitae.
Most of the answer lies in the relative bearing surface areas. Oddly, it surprising but there are a lot of full size propeller stern tubes made from - lignum vitae.
I though about that, but would be really hard to machine the bearings when the lathe is in bits, you would also need to machine a new spindle. This lathe replaced an old Advance lathe built back in the 20's, had split cast iron bearings in the head, adjusted with a bolt, had a lead screw to move the carriage for and aft, this is what wore out and was going to cost in excess of $1000 to have a new lead screw and block nut made.
Cheers
