Resistance Soldering?

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shred

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Anybody here use a resistance soldering setup? I ran across the concept today whilst surfing around instead of enjoying the holiday shopping crowds, but hasn't heard much mention of it in the HMEM world.

The concept is similar to spot-welding, but less so-- drive a current at low volts through a piece of metal and it gets hot. Shove some solder in there while it's hot. Using pointy electrodes, you can localize the heating with good precision.

I imagine it would be best for thin sheet-type work, rather than blocks of material.

A google on 'resistance soldering' turns up a number of plans and machines.
 
the so called cold heat soldering irons are resistance systems though not suited for model building. They are good for a quick electronic repair.
Micro mark has a hobby model system in there catalog.
Tin
 
Tin Falcon said:
the so called cold heat soldering irons are resistance systems though not suited for model building. They are good for a quick electronic repair.
Micro mark has a hobby model system in there catalog.
Tin

Hey Tin, have a look at this lot, you might even change your mind, after seeing what it CAN DO.

http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/

If I had the coin to acquire one, it would be on my bench right now.

regards greenie
 
Shred,

Model railoraders use resistence soldering to attach small detail parts to brass engines. The engines are usally N scale all the way to O scale.

I built one a long time ago. Don't even know what ever happened to it. I don't think resistence soldering would have a place in steam engine building. Silver soldering is much stronger and can resist a bit more heat than the lower melting temp solders used in model railroad building. Although the use of low temp solder to hold parts together for machining is useful.

Bernd
 
I used a resistance soldering rig (American Beauty) in 1954 to make up a "zillion"
50 foot cables with the old AN3200 type mill conectors. It had "pointy" carbon
tips and worked a charm. Just as a guess there must have been a 1000 pins and
sockets, some of the connectors were about 2- 1/2 " in diameter. It bothers me
to even think about it now. :)
...lew...
 
Bernd said:
Shred,

Model railoraders use resistence soldering to attach small detail parts to brass engines. The engines are usally N scale all the way to O scale.

I built one a long time ago. Don't even know what ever happened to it. I don't think resistence soldering would have a place in steam engine building. Silver soldering is much stronger and can resist a bit more heat than the lower melting temp solders used in model railroad building. Although the use of low temp solder to hold parts together for machining is useful.

Bernd
Thanks. I ran across them while contemplating ideas for the cab on my slightly-loco train build. Thought it might be interesting for assembling the sheet metal. I could probably whack one up with the contents of my junk pile, but haven't decided if I want to go that way yet.
 
The main use for them is when you have multiple parts being attached to the same base. To localize the heat, and prevent previous parts that have been soldered from falling off.
They do come in all sizes and kinds of soldering tips, from the tweezers ones to a separate probe that you use on the part being attached, with the other wire hooked to the base. It works great on small scale ship railings etc.

They make em large if you want to drop the coin.
By the way they aren't like spot welding, as you still need to clean and flux and solder filler for it to work. Were spot welding requires pressure and temp to work no outside filler metal ;D
 
I bought one from Micro-Mark. For what it does I am well pleased. I do use it on smaller parts for engines and models. Currently am building Kozo's A3 switcher and used it on some smaller pieces. So far only used it on 1/16 and 3/32 brass. They are kind of pricey tho.
 
shred said:
I could probably whack one up with the contents of my junk pile, but haven't decided if I want to go that way yet.

If I remember right I used a transformer. One wire had an aligator clip for the base and the other end I used a carbon rod from a "D" cell battery for the resistence to heat what I was going to solder. Worked pretty good to. You could probaly use an old Weller soldering gun. They kind of work on the same priciple.

Bernd
 

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