Newbie question - cutting bar stock

[mooseman]

Apologies if this is mentioned elsewhere on the forum, and I really hope this isn't too basic, but.....

What would be the most effective way to cut bar stock to size.....I'm kind of suspecting the answer will be "a hacksaw and liberal elbow grease", but is there a more effective way? What I want to do at the moment is cut a 2 inch chunk off a 10 inch piece of 2" diameter round aluminium.

 

[CrewCab]

MM .............. think you have answered your own question


Basically, imho, it depends on how much money you want to throw at the problem ...............

Cheapest way, .......... Hacksaw, with a decent blade it shouldn't be too bad really, even at my age ........ I would tackle that easily enough, if it were steel mind, I'd sub-let it to some of the younger guys 8)

Options 2/3 ............. Power Hacksaw / Bandsaw ............. more expensive, but much easier on the biceps ........... my preferred weapon is the "Power Hacksaw"

CC

 

[ksouers]

If you have a lathe, you could chuck it up and spin it and use the hacksaw on it. That's the way to part off in the old days. Just be extremely careful. Don't get the saw anywhere near the chuck.

 

[rake60]

I would suggest shopping around for a 4 X 6 bandsaw as your hobby
budget allows.

The import version of that saw sold by Harbor Freight looks like this:
Harbor Freight Bandsaw

My own looks a little different than that.

It's the SAME machine painted grey to accept a Clarke name plate.

I've seen them on sale for little as $159 USD

Rick

 

[CrewCab]

2" stock really needs a 5" chuck though, ........... at least my 4" chuck won't quite accept 2" stock, so a small lathe could struggle :

Sorry MM ................ you could be back to the hacksaw :

CC

 

[malcolmt]

Hi Moose
My thoughts are a) a coarse blade in a hacksaw, 10min's little effort.
b) a medium /fine woodcutting blade in a diy jigsaw, ali clamped in the vice, hold the jigsaw firmly in both hands One around the front of the saw One on the handle/trigger, let the saw do the work (i.e. don't force it) 2Mins very little effort.

Kind regards

malcolm

 

[CrewCab]

jigsaw

Bloomin' good suggestion Malcolm 8)

CC

 

[malcolmt]

Why thank you sir

Malcolm

 

[Bogstandard]

Odilon,

It also depends how much room you have.

For over 20 years, when I cut any non ferrous material, I use an old B&D vertical hobby bandsaw. I have cut up to 5" diameter ali on it, takes time but it does it, using the finest toothed blade you can get. I have seen them as low as £70 for a 2 wheeled one. Another couple of good points are that they can be used for cutting wood (ply sheets etc), and also they are compact enough to sit on your bench, or hide from the better half.

If your are going to cut any ferrous materials, you are back with what the other lads have told you about, but they do take up rather a large amount of space.

John

 

[mooseman]

Thanks for all the good advice gents!

BTW, I made a silly mistake in my post - where I wrote 2" diameter I meant 20mm diameter.

Looks like I might save up for a bandsaw then, but in the meantime I'll stick with my trusty hacksaw, and I'll see what can be done with my jigsaw as well.

 

[CrewCab]

where I wrote 2" diameter I meant 20mm diameter.

Nail file then ;D

CC

 

[Kludge]

*furiously scribbling notes and noting I'm running out of envelope backs.* ;D

Keep going, folks. I'm getting quite an education/refresher here.

BEst regards,

Kludge ... blaming it all on the meds.

 

[HS93]

I recently had to cut seven blocks of 75mm X 25MM and seven 7mm X 40mm all ally
just use plenty of WD40 and a good blade ,oh and a good fixed vice, and don't try and do them all at once, start each setion with some cutting.one of the finished blocks

Peter

 

[wareagle]

For aluminum, you can use a carbide tipped blade in a circular saw. That will make short work of your task!

But beware, this isn't a good idea for steel, stainless steel or other materials that are harder than aluminum. And if you are using a typical home owner's grade circular saw, don't do this too many times as the motor will heat up to the point of destroying the windings. For a couple of cuts, you'll be fine. And, use the typical precautions needed for using a circular saw!! Safety glasses, beware of blade binding, etc.

 

[steamer]

If you get the ubiquitous 4x6 bandsaw, throw the stand that comes with it away, its useless.

Make a roll around cart for it. Set the bed about a foot off the floor. Now you can bring long stuff outside to cut. Additionally, if it is low enough, it can go under the lathe or bench when not in use.
Mine is constucted of 2x4s and 3/4 ply with glue and screws. Its on casters, Its rugged and portable.

PS I make no appolgies for the mess.....It gets used a lot! ;D

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P9210077.jpg

 

[Stan]

mooseman: You don't say what equipment you have other than a hacksaw. If you have a small lathe, the standard method would be to put one end in the lathe chuck and the other end in the steady rest with a bit more than 2" sticking out and then cut off with a parting tool. If you have a lathe with a spindle ID greater than 20 mm then feed the bar through the headstock and cut off what you need with the parting tool.

crewcab: A 4 inch chuck should easily hold 5 inches with the outside jaws or on a four jaw, by reversing the jaws.

 

[mooseman]

Thanks all,

Stan, I have a modified Unimat 4, but I've only had it for a few days.As I am totally new to all this, all I've done so far is familiarising myself with all the components and with basic methodology - not done any actual cutting yet!

Other tools in my small arsenal include a power fretsaw, power jigsaw, a dremel and quite a decent drill that has been used in the past for small turning jobs.

 

[DickDastardly40]

I don't know what the diameter through the spindle is on a Unimat 4 is and parting a piece off would only be possible if your barstock will fit through the spindle and you can part close to the chuck.

If you have a bench vise or a workmate you'll be able to grip and whizz through 20mm dia ali with a hacksaw (not a junior) as quick as anything; possible even quicker than findng and putting the correct blade in your jigsaw. Getting the cut straight is a whole other skill.

With cutting anything, having it securely held still is key so that any effort is expended into the cut and also helps with the straightness of the cut.

Have the line to be cut as close to the vice jaw or edge of bench if you are securing it by g clamps to prevent the barstock from flexing.

Hope this is of some help

Al

 

[CrewCab]

crewcab: A 4 inch chuck should easily hold 5 inches with the outside jaws or on a four jaw, by reversing the jaws.

??? ............. Oooops ..... a Senior Moment : ............... Cheers Stan

 

[Bluechip]

Hi Troops ...

I use a Sabre Saw, or Reciprocating Saw, as they are called.

Cut off a 2 dia. in. chunk of EN25 a few months ago, took about 3 minutes with Rocol RTD. lube.

About 50 GBP or so for a Draper, mine's a Bosch, had it for years, cuts aluminium with a coarser pitch blade.

Handy tool, avoid cheaper blades like the plague, Bosch or Makita seem to last for ever.

Just a thought.

Dave ..