need massive info dump on solder/brazing

[Troutsqueezer]

Oh, I'm definitely picking up small drill bits. But I'm getting nice ones piecemeal from a quality used source, so I can't predict when I'll have a particular size. Besides, I'd like to solve the "general problem" not just my current 3/32" issue. That's why I started in a general way.

Unless you have money waiting to be spent you can just buy a complete drill bit set from Harbor Freight for 30 bucks. Get a Drill Doctor to sharpen them when they get dull. That's what I did and I've only had to sharpen a couple of them after three years. The holes they drill are every bit as accurate as the more expensive bits.

-Trout

 

[xatxtal]

Hello folk
I have just looked up Brazing in a 1850 Mech handbook it is spelled Brase as in Brass, fillers were described as copper zinc mixtures IE Brass.
It seems that our USA friends changed the spelling and brought it back to the UK in the first World War as Braze.
I hope this confusion may help.
Trev. :big: :big:

 

[Dunc]

Have a look at www.brazingbook.com

Some years back I had d/l a pdf version, "The Brazing Book" from Handy & Harman Canada but that website has disappeared.

It is now available from:
www.fpga-faq.org/sb-metal_hold/CD_08/​TheBrazingBook.pdf

 

[Bastelmike]

As I'm not native-english speaking this thread was pretty interesting as I always was confused with the terms brazing and soldering.

But its still somewhat confusing to me. If I look at a drawing requiring silver soldering, I still dunno what to do

1) soft soldering with low temp. and lead or tin-based solder and a propane torch,
or
2) hard soldering with silver or brass solder and taking out the acetylen-oxygen torch ?

Thats still not clear

Mike

 

[velocette]

Hi there is more information posted elsewhere on HMEM please go to

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f25/brazing-advice-needed-15662/

Eric

 

[kquiggle]

Just wanted to weigh in with my limited experience is this area: I have tried alumiweld from Harbor Freight (possibly also available from your local hardware store) - I found that it works as advertised. But - you have to keep its limitations and properties in mind:

First: your "weld" will be harder than the aluminum you are "welding" (it's really more like soldering), which may or may not be an advantage. The joint will also be more brittle - it will crack before it will bend.

Second: if you are joining more than two pieces, you will need to clamp everything together and join all pieces at more or less the same time, because your second join will likely cause the first join to melt.

I have not tried alumiweld will brass and aluminum both, so I have no idea if this will work for this combination or not.

By way of background, here are a couple of things I did with alumiweld:

One: I had a gas barbecue with a rusted out drip pan; I built a new drip pan out of aluminum sheet by bending into a shallow rectangular pan; I soldered the corners with alumiweld and this worked very well.

Two: I needed a small aluminum box for a project; I cut aluminum rectangular bar into appropriate pieces and used alumiweld to solder the interior joints. The first time I tried it the first two pieces fell apart while I was soldering on the third piece - this is when I found I needed to clamp the whole box together and solder all joints at once.