Metal suitability ( D2 tool steel)

[jack404]

G'day folks sorry to bug you with what seems a simple question

but is D2 tool steel suitable to make T cutters from??

i've a friend in the US with a peice of D2 Tool Steel Round Rod .875" dia. x 21" long

but because of the different standards conversion is not always possible and for the life of me i cannot find a ANSI or AS ( Oz standard) equivalent for D2 tool steel so before i send over my withering dollars

is this ok for T cutters??

again if there is a equivanlcy chart online somewhere let me know so i can check it myself in future and save bugging you folks

cheers

jack

 

[joeby]

Jack,
D-2 is used mostly for impact and wear resistance. I've seen it used mostly in dies, but in some injection molds also. It would probably work but it isn't much fun to machine and even less fun to grind after heat treatment.

Kevin

 

[ksouers]

Jack,
I'll have to concur with Joeby. D2 is nasty stuff. Annealed, it's stringy and abrasive. Only use carbide, HSS will wear out quickly. You won't get a decent finish out of it, it galls up easily. Once it's hardened it'll make an AO grinding wheel chatter in very short order, silicon carbide will hold up better.

O1 would be a much better choice. Machines like a dream. Hardens well, holds an edge, makes real good shop-made cutters. And it's cheaper.

Of course, it's all just my opinion. But I much prefer O1.


The other Kevin

 

[gmac]

Jack;
have you tried this

http://www.steelforge.com/crossreference.htm

Garry

 

[jack404]

gmac thanks for that

i put in M2 , which is what i buy here i put in Australia and it gives me chemical composition for copper and everything else but tool steel

i put in O1 for the US and it gives me everything from Silicon Bronze to Aluminium and everything else but again not tool steel

and the fact i have to put in my email address and i have 6 spam messages for hire equipment in california long lasting sex and tube benders does not entrall me at all

sorry mate if i'm not working it right let me know but from what i see its useless to translate steel s

 

[Maryak]

Mate,

Try this link - O1 is silver steel.

www.buau.com.au/english/b_2676.htm

Best Regards
Bob

 

[jack404]

Bob cheers for that

these are what i normally buy for my tools

Arne
EN No (W-Nr) 1.2510 , AISI O1 ( O1)
Description:- A low alloyed universal cold work steel for short runs. Excellent machinability.

Vanadis 23
EN No (W-Nr) ~1.3344, AISI M3:2 ( M2)
Description:- Vanadis 23 SuperClean³ is a high alloyed powder metallurgical high speed steel suitable for long run tooling in applications with high demands on mixed wear (abrasive/ adhesive) or where risk of plastic deformation of the working surface of the tooling is encountered.

K110
EN No (W-Nr) 1.2379, AISI D2
Description:- Dimensionally stable High Carbon High Chrome steel featuring excellent toughness

i highlighted the terms i know them as

thersa still one i am looking for S700 which is what i make my button dyes from but as i KNOW this works and where to get it i really dont need more data

pity i could not get the link before

i have charts for Aussie to Jap - jap to german -german to US but a lot dont match so they cant translate

but theres never been any one site or book i've found where i can look up a steel here and find its US equivalent or in reveerse , its always been a multi step process if possible and over 50% are not possible i've found every mill makes there own version

but drill rod being O1 is handy to know i have a ton of it from 1mm to 1/2"

so as soon as i move next week i'll start making some tools

cheers gents

jack

 

[shred]

FWIW, some Drill Rod here is O1 (oil hardening) W1 (water hard) or A1 (air hard), though I think the Brits said almost all they get as silver steel without asking specially is O1-- I dunno what the OZ situation is.

I have no idea if there's an easy way to tell them apart. I hose them down with paint when I get them so I can.

 

[Cliff]

I totally agree with what's been posted back in the late 80's I worked in a machine shop to where I had to work with D2 and it is a real pain in the neck to do anything with and like they said it doesn't look worth a darn when your done unless you grind it and then you have to watch that you don't get it to hot and harden it take from some that knows it also is very brittle subject chipping even after it has been drawed down but O1 works excellent enough rambling for know. Cliff.

 

[jack404]

well i spent all day yesterday up until 10pm loading a semi trailer with everything ready to relocate next weekend
I've found a small shop that i'll share with the shop owner/landlord who is happy to meet my needs and get some cash in from renting his unused space ( and screw the rich MN landlord from where i am now was)

so this week i'll try crankshafters t cutter i've dug out some O1 some W1 and some S700 to compare

in Oz most of the drill rod is O1 from what i can see in the catalogues but both w1 and air tempered are available and some nicklised sodium treated as well ( for marine and mining application so i am reading)

because of the crane hire i've put off buying the SX10 for a few weeks( as well as a few other things) so pics will be the lousy phone camera variety unless my mate rocks on over again

i have a bit of M42 colbalt tool steel i got from the US when last there anyone know how this machines?

Thanks for the info and advice re the D2, i know it makea a great receiver for .45's but thats all i knew

will let you know how i go making these cutters

cheers

jack

 

[joeby]

Jack,
O1 or W1 will work ok for what you need. The S700 I'm not sure what that would compare to. S7 maybe? Just a guess there; but S7 is for high impact applications, should work ok also. It will get hard enough for steel; but you might want to keep your cutting speed down.

M42 is a high speed steel. It will probably be a little on the tough side to machine. Hardening the stuff might be fun though. Hardens at over 2000 deg. F and tempers at around 1000 deg. F. It gets extremely hard (high 60s- low 70s Rc); but I seem to remember the tempering temperature range is narrow, and you have to have good temperature control.

Kevin

 

[jack404]

Cheers for that Kevin

I have the sheet for annealing and hardening M42 and do have a nice little furnace for this and various baths boxes of grit and sand etc , but lacked the machining info but have seen some end mills made from M42 and when i saw this peice i grabbed it ( $6.00 US i think) time to play with it and the other bits

cheers

jack

 

[joeby]

Jack,
Sounds like you're set! Since you're set up for heat treatment, all you need to do is determine the amount of use you would want to get from the tools you are making. For a general purpose tool for different types of material, that you expect to get a good bit of use from, I would stick with M42. If you've ground HSS lathe tools, you have an idea of what to expect when finishing a tool made from M42.

For a single or occasional use tool, I think I'd stay with the O1. The cost and availability being a consideration. I have some oddball taps and such that I've made from O1, and they did their job very well; but I wouldn't expect to get a lot of use out of them in steel and such.

One company I worked for was international, had sites in various parts of the world. They had a conversion chart so that we could cross reference our tool steels. I think I may have a copy of it stashed away at work. I will certainly check it out, as I seem to remember Arne and some others you have mentioned as being on the list.

Kevin

 

[gmac]

I've been trying to find this chart since Jack brought up the subject of international standards, but only just located it. So here you go, just for information purposes;

http://www.metricmetal.com/standards_comparison.htm

I suspect this may both help and hinder......

Cheers
Garry

 

[jack404]

Gary,

thanks for that mate, it works for me :bow: :bow: :bow:

i have jap standards and british of course and this does US to both directly

i could not make heads or tails of the other one but this is cool

because of Oz's trade with japan and the UK on steel

those to Oz standards area breeze and freely avaialable

its been US to Oz and back thats been the bugger in the woodpile, 4-5 steps generaly

steel alloy,carbon steel , and stainless are SAE here so thats easy but outside that its a free for all, grrrr

and bloody confusing at times

but ill print this one out and stick it to the wall

cheers eh

jack

 

[gmac]

Jack
Glad I could (finally) help. My problem isn't with the standards/specifications - it's availability. After asking for a quote the response is usually "not stocked". I hate the thought but for some materials I may have to start using the USA vendors, and as I'm sure you're used to, shipping costs, duty, customs ........ instant grey hair!

Have a good one.
Garry
British Columbia Canada

 

[joeby]

This site may be of some help http://steel.keytometals.com/default.aspx?ID=Articles#p12.
You have to subscribe to get to some of the information though.

Kevin

 

[jack404]

nice site , cheers eh Kevin

but the international doc's are locked .. figures

and at this price USD/EURO/ CHF ???? ( waddafat is CHF? i know what it is here but i cant say it without getting beat up or banned)

Complete Key to Metals Database CD Edition $1155.00 / €790.00 / CHF1260.00
$800 US for the annual online access

it can stay bloody locked..

its cheaper than the one here i found

OZ peso - USD umm $1626 US

$1200 US a year web access version

either i keep looking or or get rich i think..

now how to get rich fast ?? ??? :big:

cheers

jack

 

[joeby]

I would have to agree, I would never use the site enough to justify the cost. I also must admit that I didn't check the subscription price before I posted the link.

I will keep looking for the list I hopefully still have!

I think the way you get rich is to tell everyone you are and offer to tell them how for $49.95, then sit back and wait!

At any rate, how are you getting along with your cutters?

Kevin

 

[jack404]

despite all the free time without a workshop
i've been playin silly buggers with a heap of other items
electric disconnect from where i was
splitting the board where i'm going
( not expencive but a bugger to get done "now")

i did get a start on 2 peices but besides having 1/2 a nice shank done on each

but then realised my home rigged horzontal tube indexer is somewhere in "a" box on a semi trailer in a transport yard

(i use it for checkering)

i really dont have a way to get the angles right another way in the home workshop

so that great idea is shot to hell.... next! we shall try again in a couple of days

i'm starting to unload the trailer tomorrow ;D