Hasbrouck#10

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chillybilly

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
217
Reaction score
0
Now i have managed to get the drawings from the US ,been having a look.Drawings recomend cast iron for the cylinder ,typically have a lump of free maching steel in the shop the right size ,any oppinions on using this instead would be welcome ??
anyone on here built one of these ??? :)
 
Hello,

Ray is a good friend, and a good designer.

If your going to go through the work of building and engine ....the size of a that one, I would suggest using the materials suggested by Ray and you will have success. My friend Will has been using one of Ray's for over 20 years in his boat and swears by it.

Warm regards,
Dave :)
 
No doubt about Rays abilitys ,the drawings themselves are like art ,reminds me of my old employment with hand drawn drawings ,so much softer on the eye than the CAD drawings .

Only building the engine for a project ,it will never run on steam,probably just some nitrogen or air .Would just like to have one on my shelf !

On this basis i was hoping to keep the material costs down .The reason for the large scale is i have fairly big machines and not a great deal of small tooloing at present so the Hasbrouck #10 fits my facilitys well .Is the oppinion that a steel cylindewr just will not function ???
 
C B:
If a display model with only occasional use and no power output needed then you may be able to use different material. The other option would be to for a CI sleeve. A cast iron pipe coupling could do here. I know you want to build large here but if you scaled it down a bit say 3/4 scale you would use less than half the material. just a thought.
Tin
 
The point of using cast iron is that the high carbon content gives it a self lubricating property. Steel will work in the sense that the engine will certainly run, if its built to reasonable fits, but is likely to wear faster.

Free machining steel is also much more prone to rust, so if you did run it on steam it would very likely rust badly. Even as a display model it will be more prone to rust on any exposed surface.
 
Thanks for the advice everone ,certainly food for thought .Certainly gonna be a big thing .Any advice on machining cast iron ,regards tooling and avoiding damaging the lathe and mill ways with the swarf ,always avoided it for those reasons......
Cheers
Will :)
 
The few times I machined cast iron i just use the shop vac. CI Generaly is machined dry with air flow to cool the tool. you can always build a cyclone separatoror out of a large coffee can or a 5 gallon bucket to keep the chips out of the vac and separate from other debris that typicaly goes into a shop vac. you can even get auto switches that turn on the vac when you turn the machine on for $20-$30 US. CI is a bit different from steel but not hard to machine. Ok maybe harder than brass or aluminum.
Tin
 

Latest posts

Back
Top