B
Bogstandard
Guest
I am just going thru my build of a mine engine and came to a bit where a post here would be better than in the build post.
When I build an engine, I do like the nuts and bolts to look correct for the engine, on this one I am doing all hex head nuts and bolts.
This is how I get studs and nuts looking correct.
This first picture shows what I am about to assemble. These bolts (8BA normal on the left and one size smaller head on the right) look way too long, but there is a reason for this. I am a cheapskate when it comes to buying things so I buy the longest bolts possible (only pennies difference) and make a dual use of them. The other thing is that when drilling clearance holes on a close tolerance part like the steam valve I don't drill using the standard sized clearance drills, but measure the thread and use the next sized drill up, this keeps everything nice and tight.
On this one the bolts have been tightened to the bottom of the holes with two washers under the nuts, with the 'good' end of the nut towards the washers.
Now this is where being a cheapskate comes into its own, the tops of the bolts I have cut off will be used elsewhere on the engine. Two bits for the price of one.
Sorry about the blurred pic, it must have been the knee trembling excitement.
Anway, what I have done is machine the cut off threads and nuts to a thickness that looks right for the scale of engine, in this case about 1/3 of the nut was removed.
Take off the nuts, remove one washer and put the nut back on the right way round. The finished result, with the same length protruding from each thinned down nut now looks right, and when this is done on all parts of the engine it just 'lifts' it above the norm.
John
When I build an engine, I do like the nuts and bolts to look correct for the engine, on this one I am doing all hex head nuts and bolts.
This is how I get studs and nuts looking correct.
This first picture shows what I am about to assemble. These bolts (8BA normal on the left and one size smaller head on the right) look way too long, but there is a reason for this. I am a cheapskate when it comes to buying things so I buy the longest bolts possible (only pennies difference) and make a dual use of them. The other thing is that when drilling clearance holes on a close tolerance part like the steam valve I don't drill using the standard sized clearance drills, but measure the thread and use the next sized drill up, this keeps everything nice and tight.
On this one the bolts have been tightened to the bottom of the holes with two washers under the nuts, with the 'good' end of the nut towards the washers.
Now this is where being a cheapskate comes into its own, the tops of the bolts I have cut off will be used elsewhere on the engine. Two bits for the price of one.
Sorry about the blurred pic, it must have been the knee trembling excitement.
Anway, what I have done is machine the cut off threads and nuts to a thickness that looks right for the scale of engine, in this case about 1/3 of the nut was removed.
Take off the nuts, remove one washer and put the nut back on the right way round. The finished result, with the same length protruding from each thinned down nut now looks right, and when this is done on all parts of the engine it just 'lifts' it above the norm.
John