Filling rest
- Thread starter steamer
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maverick
Well-Known Member
Steamer,
Iv'e only seen filling rests used for clock and watch making, never anything of
much size. With a micrometer height adjustment, Your setup must allow you to do very close work.
I'd be very interested in the the design, use and suitable applications of a filling rest.
Regards,
Mike
Hi Mike and all,
Cool.
Your right...a filing rest is usually used with the Clock and Watch makers.
However, I find mine very useful for the odd wrench flat or hex head. I can make a #5 bolt head hex in about 2 minutes....and it is dead concentric to the screw body because it was all done in the same set up on the lathe
For scale the chuck is a #5C collet chuck...the file is about 1" wide...so not small.
To really take advantage of this the lathe needs some way to do basic dividing, either with a gear with a pin or an index plate mounted some where on the spindle. The back plate on my collet chuck has and 24 hole index plate.
It is so fast to set up, that for small stuff, it's way faster than the mill. You get a nice finish with the file too.
I find it handy.
While I wait for amegeddon to arrive ((*#&(*&@# Weather) :
I'll take some pictures and post here.
Dave
Cool.
Your right...a filing rest is usually used with the Clock and Watch makers.
However, I find mine very useful for the odd wrench flat or hex head. I can make a #5 bolt head hex in about 2 minutes....and it is dead concentric to the screw body because it was all done in the same set up on the lathe
For scale the chuck is a #5C collet chuck...the file is about 1" wide...so not small.
To really take advantage of this the lathe needs some way to do basic dividing, either with a gear with a pin or an index plate mounted some where on the spindle. The back plate on my collet chuck has and 24 hole index plate.
It is so fast to set up, that for small stuff, it's way faster than the mill. You get a nice finish with the file too.
I find it handy.
While I wait for amegeddon to arrive ((*#&(*&@# Weather) :
I'll take some pictures and post here.Dave
About 2.75" center to center
The knurled nut is 3/8-40 and has a set screw that locks it in position. This lets you set the axial play to about nothing.
The rollers are standard shouldered drill bushings that you can get right out of the MSC catalog. They are about 5/8" ID x 1" OD with a 1.25 dia flange. They are dead hard.
the shafts are turned wtih a threaded spigot that bolts to the block. I lathe cut the male threads. It's funny now to see the spiral pattern on the shaft after some use...I didn't see that after it was made. Make the fit here nice and close. Additionally, you don't need or want much in the way of lubrication. A shot or Starrett M1 lubricant once a year is all it needs or the drag from the oil film will make the file skip.
You need a safe edge file to use this ( no teeth on the edge)
Keep filing until both rolls are turning and the file is not cutting...and your there.
The dovetail was duplicated from one of my holders
The micrometer and bracket were from some yard sale...came just as it is....drilled and tapped two 8-32 holes and it was on and fit perfect.
Knock the corners off so you don't run your hand into sharp edges while your filing.
The body could be made in one piece, but I had the two blocks in the lucky box.
Dave
mklotz
Well-Known Member
What effect do those hardened rollers have on good files?
Good question Marv.
I haven't noticed any effect at all. They cut just fine...Again it's a safe edge file, if you crank the edge of a regular file against the shoulder I am sure bad things will happen to both. As they are....the files skate right over the roller like it's a ball bearing.....
There is ongoing debate in the clock and watchmaking community about whether the rollers need to be hard or soft...I have not noticed any issues with the files I bought 2 years ago...and I've used them a lot.
W.R. Smith uses hardened rollers....and swears by them...good enough for me.
Make them soft if you like....
Dave
I haven't noticed any effect at all. They cut just fine...Again it's a safe edge file, if you crank the edge of a regular file against the shoulder I am sure bad things will happen to both. As they are....the files skate right over the roller like it's a ball bearing.....
There is ongoing debate in the clock and watchmaking community about whether the rollers need to be hard or soft...I have not noticed any issues with the files I bought 2 years ago...and I've used them a lot.
W.R. Smith uses hardened rollers....and swears by them...good enough for me.
Make them soft if you like....
Dave
chuck foster
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great dave.............thanks allot..........another thing on my mile and half long list of things to make :big: :big:
if i ever get to the end of my list.....................who am i kidding, the list NEVER ends ;D
thanks dave.
chuck
if i ever get to the end of my list.....................who am i kidding, the list NEVER ends
;Dthanks dave.
chuck
arnoldb
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Very nice Dave Thm:
For a change something that's already on my tuit list; no need to add it again ;D
Regards, Arnold
Oh, and congratulations on buying that new file in the first photo - I see the tang is nice and clean; ready to have the handle fitted
For a change something that's already on my tuit list; no need to add it again ;D
Regards, Arnold
Oh, and congratulations on buying that new file in the first photo - I see the tang is nice and clean; ready to have the handle fitted
Sir! Yes Sir!........ ;Darnoldb said:Very nice Dave Thm:
For a change something that's already on my tuit list; no need to add it again ;D
Regards, Arnold
Oh, and congratulations on buying that new file in the first photo - I see the tang is nice and clean; ready to have the handle fitted
ptauser
New Member
Hi folks, as a newby from London I would like to introduce myself. I have an interest in clockmaking, my favourite lathes being Pultras (hence my username). Many people have seen watchmakers filing rests,without realising the rollers are deliberately offset from the horizontal in an "uphill" fashion. This allows a fine adjustment of the cut simply by moving the topslide in or out. Hope this simplifies things. Cheers, ptauser.
The thousanths dial on mine takes care of that just fine..... ;D
The tool post is an AXA clone. I have capacity from zero to 1" Diameter.....in thousandths on diameter directly....I suspect I could split a thou if I wanted, though I haven't tried to yet.
Dave
The tool post is an AXA clone. I have capacity from zero to 1" Diameter.....in thousandths on diameter directly....I suspect I could split a thou if I wanted, though I haven't tried to yet.
Dave
I guess the idea is simple because I have the dovetail and lock already. Using the post in this way allows me to keep my tool post positioned exactly perpendicular to the lathe spindle axis, so I can take advantage of the QCTP and be able to use some of the more esoteric attachments that make life easy,,,without tearing things apart.
The beam of the rest has a slot to allow stock to pass through and be supported by the tailstock also.
Dave
The beam of the rest has a slot to allow stock to pass through and be supported by the tailstock also.
Dave
ptauser
New Member
Dave, in no way was I criticising a very nice piece work. I was just suggesting drilling the rear roller location say 1/4" higher than the front roller. You would still mount the rest horizontally, but the rollers would be at say20 degs. I have never needed great accuracy- I just keep filing until the corners are formed. If I needed more precision I would use simple trigonometry on the roller angle/top slide dial readings, saving the extra micrometer. This "uphill" design is from the old-timers who knew a thing or two.
ptauser.
ptauser.
