E Z Engine No2

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Phantom0_1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
When I completed the original E Z engine I decided to take stock of the shop and do a bit of sorting out.
This is now done so it is time to move on and make another engine.
I had a look at some other deigns of engine, but decided that the modified Runner was a big enough step forward for me.
The drawings are in imperial and as marking out is where I struggle most I will have to double check myself at each stage.

To save on material costs I decided to use 6MM plate (left over from EZ).
The 3/4" square bar I had to order and wait for it to arrive.
I couldn't use the left over 20mm bar from EZ as I have used that to make a carrage stop anyway. ;D



DSCF0001.JPG


DSCF0002.JPG
 
A couple of small improvements in marking out.
I got some layout blue. It shows up the score lines better and doesn't rub off as easy.
The child in me does miss the scribbling with markers tho. ;D
I have laminated the drawings so I should be able to read them even with wd40 all over my hands.
They might also survive to the end of the build (that's if I don't loose them first).
 
If you are trying to read whats on the mug.
Do you think the GF is trying to tell me something?


DSCF0003.JPG
 
Marks for artistic style and accuracy with a hacksaw?
Nil points. ;D
The pieces are at least over size.
Finally for now milling to finished size.
Daft question? are g cramps OK to use?

Tony

DSCF0005.JPG


DSCF0006.JPG
 
Phantom0_1 said:
are g cramps OK to use?

I don't really know...but whenever I've used them, they tended to rotate on me.
I'll be interested to hear what others say.
 
I tend to use tool makers clamps as theres no twisting action as they tighten up and they make a useful project in themselves.Good luck with the build, know what you mean about the marker pens
best wishes Frazer
 
Tony, I don't think your parts will care what kind of clamps you use, as long as you can get things lined
up the way you want. The main complaint with them is that they want to turn on the work, like the
other guys said. Use what you've got until you can make a pair of machinist clamps.

Good luck with your project. Coming along well, so far!

Dean
 
A bit more progress this week, once I had milled the pieces to size the next job was to drill and bore out the cylinder.

DSCF0007.JPG
 
A bit of drilling and tapping and the main parts were attached to the base

DSCF0009.JPG


DSCF0010.JPG
 
Started with some of the turned parts.
The first piston I wrecked whilst parting, so I had to make a second.

DSCF0012.JPG


DSCF0013.JPG
 
Hi Tony, its looking good and coming on at quite a pace.Good look with the rest of the build the first piston wasn't wrecked it just a slight technical problem
best wishes Frazer
 
That's good progress, Tony. You got quite a bit more done.
It's coming together as a nice looking engine.

Dean
 
Hi Tony,

It's coming along very nicely, not far to go now and you'll soon have another engine in your collection.

Nick
 
This week I have managed to find a few hours of time in the shop. ;D
So quite a bit has been done on the engine.
Managed to make the bell crank, valve and the simple linkages without too many problems.

DSCF0014.JPG


DSCF0015.JPG
 
My first real problem/decision was the flywheel.
I don't have any 6mm aluminium plate left and have no bar stock in alloy anywhere near that size.
I did have some 1 1/2" brass bar so I decided to use that as I thought the extra material mass would make up for lack of size.


DSCF0019.JPG


DSCF0020.JPG
 
The last linkage was the one that had me stumped for a while, it moves in all directions at once and I wanted my solution to take this into account.
My solution isn't the only one, but it is the one I felt did the job the best for me.


DSCF0016.JPG


DSCF0021.JPG


DSCF0022.JPG
 
The cups for the ball joints are kept in place by the connecting rod entering into the cup bellow the ball a couple of turns and acting as a retaining pin.
Once I was happy it was the right length etc I locked it in place with a little drop of loctite on the threads.
The double bend in the connecting rod is so that the cups sit evenly on the balls and still have enough movement for the linkage to move smoothly.
The finished engine cleaned up.

DSCF0033.JPG


DSCF0034.JPG


DSCF0035.JPG
 
Sorry the vid isnt very good and I messed up on the first try.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top