I suppose that if it comes down to the saw or the wife you probably are better off sticking with the wife. If your wife is like mine it would be difficult to find another one who would put up with metal shavings tracked into the house. holes burned in your clothes and permanently stained hands.I can't put the new saw on that side of the garage because it is too big, and would stick out into the area my wife needs to park her car in during the winter.
Your 3/4" blade will cut a radius, albeit a fairly large one, here's an indication of what a given blade should cut. That is from a woodworking site so your blades may be a bit different as, I think, the set on the teeth is wider for metal cutting blades, on my Baxter roll-in type saw they list the radius for a 3/4 inch blade as 4".With a 3/4" wide blade, you really can't cut curves. That's okay, I never really wanted to cut curves. 99% of my cuts were simple straight cuts. Now this new to me DoAll saw is not called a "bandsaw". It says right on it that it is a "contour saw".
You should check out what DoAll was up to, when they were really serious about the contour-saw thing. This thread on PracticalMachinist is a good resource:Here I am, 75 years old, worked in engineering all my life, and never knew that there was such a thing as a "Contour Saw". Life never ceases to amaze me!!!
I'm pretty sure my Zephyr is able to run either normal blades or band files. I will admit to it being a completely unfounded assumption on my part that other DoAll models were convertible! Might not be proper to call the Zephyr a "normal bandsaw" thoughI have serious doubts that band files could be run on a normal bandsaw without significant modifications, assuming you could find them for reasonable money.
I am sure that your electrical friend has checked but the motor has to be connected internally for 220 volts. Most industrial equipment is wired for 440 volt so the motor has to be changed also.There is no joy in Mudville---My electrical friend who has really impressive skills came to my house this morning at 9:30 and proceeded to wire up my VFD. While he was doing his wiring thing, I decided on a mounting location and mounted the VFD on the saw. After a whole lot of wire pulling and connecting, he hit the start button on the VFD, and the 3 phase motor started running.---but---the VFD was showing a "trip" light. The VFD was shut down, everything was checked, and the start button was pushed again. This time the VFD came to life, but the motor didn't start, and the "trip" light on the VFD came on again. Everything was checked, then re-checked, then checked again.---No Dice. The instruction booklet which came with the VFD acknowledged that yes, there was a "trip" light, but failed to mention what to do about it, nor exactly what it meant. Finally at 3:00 my friend had to leave and go home, with both of us scratching our heads and the saw still not functioning. I don't really need the saw right now, because I still have my smaller converted wood bandsaw. In a total crunch, I can take the two horsepower single phase motor of my old power hacksaw and run the DoAll saw with it---if I have to. Still, a rather disappointing way to end the day. My friend will do some research on Tuesday when everything is open again, and hopefully come up with an answer.
220, 440, 380, 550...it is like Forrest Gump's box of chocolates! You never know what you're going to find!!I am sure that your electrical friend has checked but the motor has to be connected internally for 220 volts. Most industrial equipment is wired for 440 volt so the motor has to be changed also.