centering scope

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Hello,

A couple of additional thoughts on the centerscope. I have the SPI 405 version, the length of the nose is 4.5" if you bury the shaft in a collet. The focus point is about an inch above that. So there is that to consider about tramming the Z up and down, but I am fortunate to have electrics for that, so for me it is not much of an issue.

One of the members said that it is a pain to check in four different quadrants, I humbly offer that it is only necessary to check in two perpendicular quads to be dead nuts on.

I think that it is lot like Ford or Chevy pickups You are going to like one or the other, this method works for me, and for locating the center of a previously drilled hole of moderate caliber, I really do not know of a more dead on substitute, the same is true for me for in layout where I am trying to find zero/zero on a piece fixtured on the milling table, to start a milling process.

Best Wishes

Chuck M
 
A little off topic but still concerned with aligning on marks. I was walking past the el cheapo bench drill presses in a big box store today when one caught my eye, it had a label on it "laser alignment"

It has a hollow Jacobs taper for the chuck, and presumably a laser up in the spindle that shines down through the chuck. You have to line things up before you put the drill bit in of course.

Something like that could be useful for a mill, but probably be too hard to adapt, thinking about drawbars etc.
 
bob ward said:
A little off topic but still concerned with aligning on marks. I was walking past the el cheapo bench drill presses in a big box store today when one caught my eye, it had a label on it "laser alignment"

It has a hollow Jacobs taper for the chuck, and presumably a laser up in the spindle that shines down through the chuck. You have to line things up before you put the drill bit in of course.

Something like that could be useful for a mill, but probably be too hard to adapt, thinking about drawbars etc.
They make a little laser edge finder, but most people don't like it much since the beam is a fair bit wider than a prick punch mark or scribe line. Works well for quick-n-dirty zeroing, but so do a lot of methods ;)

 
i worked on using the dials . what a pain in the you know what. i need to find something different. to much trouble for something simple as getting it on the mark. although i did get it to be spot on. maybe ill save for a dro but they sure are spendy.in the mean time ill try the dials again but i dont like them. many thanks guys
 

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