Aluminum stand - paint?

[Swede]

I am working on a new engine mount for a running IC model that will see lots of oil, a little gasoline, general IC engine abuse. The base is a 1/4" aluminum plate, maybe 18" X 12" in size, very plain, but functional.

I'd like to finish it in some manner. I've had rotten luck in the past painting aluminum. I know it needs a correct primer. The enamel paints that I have been using in the past seem to shrug off oil well, so the trick is in the priming.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a proper aluminum prime so I can shoot this thing with a bit of color? Any other tips on finishing off aluminum at home? Thanks.

 

[DPowell]

Powder coat it. ;D

Seriously, Ive had pretty good luck in the past with epoxy paint. It's available in spray or brush on. One thing almost no paint can stand up to is brake fluid. It's a great paint remover.

 

[Admiral_dk]

Powder coat or Anodizing are the two best ways to protect aluminium.

 

[deverett]

If you really want to paint the ali instead of anodizing it as has been suggested, then first use an etch primer. Thereafter carry on as if you were painting 'normally'.

Good etch primer comes in rattle cans; no need for the 2 part stuff for our use/abuse.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[Troutsqueezer]

If you really want to paint the ali instead of anodizing it as has been suggested, then first use an etch primer. Thereafter carry on as if you were painting 'normally'.

Good etch primer comes in rattle cans; no need for the 2 part stuff for our use/abuse.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Yah, you can buy it at WalMart too. Works for me.

 

[bearcar1]

As with any other type of finishing procedure, be it metal or that other brown stuff ;D, one has to properly clean the surface to rid it of surface dust etc., and in this case, any oils or contaminants that are present. Many do not realize that even light handling, oils from our skin will be left on the surfaces being handled and can effect the final finish. Clean all of the surfaces with a degreaser, such as a lacquer thinner, (common rubbing alcohol can be used but contains large amounts of water and should not be considered for steel pieces) and proceed to use the etch primers in light coats, just enough of evenly discolor the surface and then, after wiping down once again, apply the top color.

BC1
Jim

 

[Swede]

Thanks for the suggestions. I may give powder coating a shot. Harbor Freight has that cheap kit that seems to work. Otherwise, it's good to know a rattle-can primer designed for aluminum should do the trick.

 

[Generatorgus]

I've had very good results by giving the parts a light sandblasting and a good wipe down with solvent.

 

[Rustkolector]

Painting a model is tough. Future disassembly, engine fuels, and clean up solvents will take it's toll quickly. Powder coat is durable but goes on pretty heavy for small models. It fillets corners and hides small details.

If you are not fussy about special colors there is a excellent product from KG Industries called Gun Kote 2400 series that I think is an ideal model engine finish. The 2400 series finish is a Mil spec finish for military firearms. I have used it, and highly recommend it. Unlike paints, it does not go thick (.oo1"-.oo3" for many coats). It will not chip or peel off. I have disassembled an engine a few times that was painted with this product and did not even have to touch up the nut and bolt heads. Preparation requires a light grit blast using #120 aluminum oxide prior to spraying. #120 grit blasting does a nice job of removing machining marks and will not the finish quality. No primer is needed with 2400. It is does require baking for 1 hour at 325F to cure the paint (do it in the garage in a toaster oven), similar to powder coat so the minimum heat solder you can use on the model is 4% silver solder. I like it for model engines because it does go on thin and does not hide detail, or gum up sliding mechanisims like powder coat can. An 8oz can costs about $17. Another nice feature about this finish is that you can wash down your engine with aerosol brake cleaner, and it will not affect this finish one bit.

There a a few other rather tough non baking finishes out there, but this is the only company that guaranteed me that it would not peel off of brass. I use a lot of brass.

Jeff

 

[Tin Falcon]

I worked in a model shop for a while. They make Industrial training equipment.http://dacworldwide.com/
One of my jobs was painting. We did a lot of aluminum stuff the top coat was IIRC three part urathane. we uses an etching primer for the aluminum.
Tin