A new ignition circuit

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ok ,
E1 not hooked up
E2to test lite probe
E3 to Batt +
E4 to test lite ground
E5 to Batt -

LED flashes, Test lite does not lite
Tried it with E1 and E2 tied together at test probe, same results.

Ron
 
ok ,
E1 not hooked up
E2to test lite probe
E3 to Batt +
E4 to test lite ground
E5 to Batt -

LED flashes, Test lite does not lite
Tried it with E1 and E2 tied together at test probe, same results.

Ron
Ron I cant help you if you try different stuff that I'm telling you to do
please be with me

E1 E2 E3 TIED TOGETHER POSITIVE BATTERY


E5 E7 D3 EMITER OF Q2 AND Q1 ARROW TIED TO GROUND


NOW PUT A BULB ACROOS E2 AND E4 DO NOT REMOVE IT

NOW USE A LED AND CHECK PULSE BETWWEN R6 AND Q2
IF IT FLASH YOUR OK
IF NOT YOUR HALL IS NOT WORKING

IF A PULSE CHECK BETWEEN R4 AND PIN 1 OF Q1
AND NO FLASHS OF THE BULB BETWEEN E2 AND E4
Q1 IS BADLY WIRED OR FRIED

NOW USE A LED WITH PROPER RESISTANCE TO VOLTAGE USE

IF YOU FOLLOW THESE STEPS IT WILL WORK
 
Luc, I thought I was doing it right.

You understand that the LED on the board flashes by me waving the south pole of a magnet at the hall sensor right?

I will do all these test tomorrow. I have been at this thing since 4 am this morning and need a break. You probably do as well. I know it's frustrating trying to help over the web.and I do really appreciate all the help you've given me.


E5 E7 D3 EMITER OF Q2 AND Q1 ARROW TIED TO GROUND. These are all tied to ground


NOW PUT A BULB ACROOS E2 AND E4 DO NOT REMOVE IT. This is what I did with my test lite.



NOW USE A LED AND CHECK PULSE BETWWEN R6 AND Q2
IF IT FLASH YOUR OK
IF NOT YOUR HALL IS NOT WORKING

IF A PULSE CHECK BETWEEN R4 AND PIN 1 OF Q1
AND NO FLASHS OF THE BULB BETWEEN E2 AND E4
Q1 IS BADLY WIRED OR FRIED

NOW USE A LED WITH PROPER RESISTANCE TO VOLTAGE USE

Will do these tomorrow.

Thanks you very much Luc. If nothing else I have learned a lot about tracking circuits and reading data sheets.


Ron
 
Took one last look for the night and it looks like my son put a 100k 1/2 watt resistor in at R3 instead of a 100K 1/4 watt.

Could this be the problem?
Will change it out for the 100K 1/4 watt one in the morning as its not what the schematic calls for.

Ron
 
Luc, It occurred to me that what I call a test light ( coming from a automotive background) and what you call a test light ( coming from a electrical engineering background) might be two different things.

This is what I have as a test light. I also have a cheap multimeter I got from harbor freight but am not sure how to use it.
That's all I have as test equipment.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...it-tester/_/N-2714?itemIdentifier=186543_0_0_


NOW USE A LED AND CHECK PULSE BETWWEN R6 AND Q2

What kind of LED and how do you do this?

IF IT FLASH YOUR OK
IF NOT YOUR HALL IS NOT WORKING

IF A PULSE CHECK BETWEEN R4 AND PIN 1 OF Q1
AND NO FLASHS OF THE BULB BETWEEN E2 AND E4
Q1 IS BADLY WIRED OR FRIED

NOW USE A LED WITH PROPER RESISTANCE TO VOLTAGE USE
IF YOU FOLLOW THESE STEPS IT WILL WORK


What is proper resistance?


Sorry about all the questions but I know nothing about this stuff. I'm a complete baby lost in the woods.

Ron
 
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that test light is fine
now proper resistance would be different depending your voltage supply
in this case it should be the same that what your using with your LED now
(R1)

because a LED is a polarize component it will only work in one direction
so for not mixing things up later in testing

plug you test on your battery source and when it will turn on mark the leads
accordingly... the positive with a + and negative with a-

the test after this will be very important that you notice what the polarity is
and go one step at a time and give me the answer to my question
cheers
 
Which pin on Q2 do I use for check between R6 and Q2?

Ron
 
Put leads of LED on batt posts and it flashed on, went out and won't come on anymore. I guess it burned it out.

Ron
 
these might help you

2n4124.jpg


isl9vv3040.jpg
 
Thanks Luc, I have those. That's how I found out son had put Q1 in wrong. You mentioned which pin on Q1 but didn't say which pin on Q2.
I don't have another LED at the moment plus I just got my laptop back from repair shop. I will be working on it to get set back up as I lost all my programs and files. So I will be taking a break from this for a bit.

Ron
 
OK on Q2 it would be gate instead of Base
both Q work the same its only the power that's different
all this circuit is really is a relay between your signal and your coil
If you want you can do some testing with a test light but something has to be between E2 and E4
what voltage source are you using

and the signal at B and G is positive you can check that with a millimetre also
 
12 volt car batt.

ron

then you'll need a 3.9k resistor it should be the same one you use in your circuit

when do you want to check this in PM if we do this one shot it should not be more than 4 test 0r 15 min
 
Sorry wife commandeered me for house cleaning. Relatives coming Friday.

Maybe we can try tomorrow evening.

Also I don't have any more 3.9k 1/4 watt resistors. Local radio shack has 3.3k 1/4 watt or 4.7k 1/4 wat tbut no 3.9k 1/4 watt.
They do have 3.9k 1/2 watt resistors if they will work. If it has to be 3.9k 1/4 watt, I will have to order it and that will take at least a week. Probably cost .50 cents and cost $8.00 Shipping.:wall:


Edited to put in wattage of resistors.
Ron
 
Last edited:
Maybe we can try tomorrow evening.

Also I don't have any more 3.9k resistors. Local radio shack has 3.3k or 4.7k but no 3.9k. .:wall:

Ron

3.3 or 4.7 will work grab any of them it would be good if you have an extra diode 1n400?? or a 1n4148

where are you but tomorrow at 6PM should be good for me
 
I'm in Pueblo Colorado. Mountain time zone I believe you are in Central Time Zone and that would put you 1 hr ahead of me. Your 6 pm would be my 5 pm.
I have two 1N4003 diodes and one NTE 116 diode. Also three Q1s and two Q2s. Also Have spare capacitors on hand. The only thing I don't have I guess is the LEDs and radio shack doesn't have them.

Ron
 

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