Search results

Approx. 36 issues Dated 2009-2014. Good condition. FREE, you pay shipping from 75154.

We never actually “Screw-up” but sometimes unexpected things happen. Recovering from them is the real challenge. Recently I needed to press fit aluminum “Plugs” in the end of a steel tube that was part of an assembly and offered no access to one end. Just a blind tube that was not machined...

I’ve always known that materials expand with heat, but recently while machining 2.5”+ OD 6061 aluminum involving deep large diameter drilling followed by boring and turning to diameter. I was making internal bearing pockets in parts that needed the OD press-fit in a cylinder so the dimensions...

This is a ROUGH casting that I rejected because of some appearance flaws that I was concerned wouldn’t machine out as I wanted a raw brass finish for my project. The flaws are approx. 1/8” deep on the back side. I think they will machine out as the sides are nearly 1/2” thick, but if not, would...

Bought this to make a cylinder liner for a Corliss engine and didn’t use it. Hard to find from most sources. Cored bronze bar . Weight 2.3 Lb. OD= 1.790” ID= 1.453” Length= 7-3/4” $15.00 + shipping from 75154

Approx. size 9” x 12.5”. 52 Pieces. Located in Dallas TX. If you can use this amount, this is a true bargain. $1040.00+ Shipping. Comes to $20.00 Ea. plus shipping. Compare to online price of (12” x 12”) $33.00+ Ea. + shipping.

The things one finds when cleaning house (Shop).. Weight is approximate. $25 + shipping from 75154.

As new in the original box. Virtually unused, perfect condition. Mfgr. # 50441 (98-6) New $142. Sell for $85 plus shipping from 75154.

I do lots of sanding to remove powder-coat from 6061 Aluminum. I go through lots of belts but recently encountered some ceramic versions. They cost a good bit more but really cut through the powder-coat much faster than the old variety. Seems like they stay sharp and cut quicker for an extended...

Over the course of 30 years I've finished a few steam & Hit-n-miss engine projects. At age 75, I'm thinking I won't be here forever and am wondering what does one do with these beautiful, carefully finished, and completely useless lumps of brass & cast iron? My son would probably like to have...

I'm using 4" Dia., 1/16" thick circular saw blades (Metal cutting) with a 1" center hole in a home-made mandril. I made the central hold-down bolt/plug a very snug fit in the 1"center-hole. In use, they "seem" to get hot and crack radially from the corner of the key cutout of the center hole...

I'm always finding chunks of mystery metal that are drops without any identification, is there any way (At home) to ID different alloys of aluminum? I can usually tell by machining 6061 or 7075 by the ease with which one cuts vs the other. But, Can I tell without cutting??

A couple month ago there was an article in "The Home Shop Machinist" on a system to maintain alignment of the head of a Mill-Drill while raising/lowering it. Then in this month's issue someone suggests attaching an inexpensive laser pointer to the head, and drawing a a vertical line on the wall...

When I'm making small parts in the lathe I often need to position a thin part in the 3-jaw chuck. And it's usually not true. I made this tool to put in the tail-stock chuck to provide a reference surface perpendicular to the lathe axis. Move it close to the chuck and position small parts using...

While it looks like a tiny square, it is made so the cross rule can be slid side-to-side, and by manipulating the two knurled knobs it can be locked in various angles a few degrees from perpendicular. The rule is in 64 Th. of an inch. I can see how it could be used to transfer very small angles...

It consists of a cylinder, the ball is precisely .500 Diameter. The sleeve ID allows the ball to be drawn into the ID with a light amount of drag, when the knurled nut is tightened. My Father-in-law was a machinist/tool/die maker and I inherited his tools but this one defies any use I can think of.

I made this tap-wrench in High-School shop class in Baltimore Md. in 1958. I still use it because it's the perfect length to swing in my lathe and it clears the column in the Mill-Drill, and it gives enough leverage for anything I make. I can't remember the grade I got on it but I'd probably...

I have 2 mechanical edge finders, one .500 Diameter and the other with a .200 head diameter. I was told to bring the Edge finder toward the material at high spindle speed, it will form a perfect cylinder, continue until the concentricity of the shaft & head break. At that point you've found the...

I have an older model and wanted the newer one made so it can be set perpendicular to the lathe axis in my QCTP. The U.S. Distributer wanted $150 for the tool. Then had the audacity to ask $21.95 to ship a 10 OZ. tool from Il. to TX! I get angry when companies try to rip me off on exorbitant...

No longer needed.