Silver soldering/Brazing technique

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It is difficult to tell you- precisely. It would have helped if you had 'pickled' your work to clean up.
Having said that, if you are happy that things are secure, strong enough and gas tight that is fine. Obviously, you will become more skilled and neater as you progress. You have managed- so GOOD SHOW-Well Done.
 
If one were try use silver solder, would their be a high temperature flux needed as well.
 
Silver solder( and I mean silver solder) requires a borax based flux. Things like resin, tallow. spirits of salts, baker's fluid are only suitable for lead solders.
 
Question???? Are you intending to use silver solder- and I do mean silver solder.

If you are using soft or hard solder, you are simply asking for more troubles by using boric acid.

See my earlier remarks above.
 
Chuck as I said elsewhere that Stay-brite solder you have is not suitable for borax based flux, it came with a zinc chloride flux so you need to use that or a rosin one.

The Stay-silv is not a hard solder/braze but a high temp (400degC) soft solder that does have a couple of % silver content. Its is not classes as a silver solder/braze until the temps get to about 620deg C. If buying Harris products you want Safety-silv or at a pinch for non boiler work Stay-silv

The solder will melt before the borak and you will just end up overheating the solder and it won't stick to the metal

J
 
Hi Goldstar,
Both mating parts just came off from lathe and hence mating faces clean.So Skipped the pickling.
With copper boilers and end caps,I would use pickle bath. Pickling compound bought from HandsTokyu,Tokyo,Japan. One word of advice.Do not spend too much time in the DIY Hardware floor,I walked out hundreds of $$$ poorer. Going there again this Chinese New Year,mid Feb. 2013 with new year resolution-------Thou shall stick to the "buy plan" and $$$$ limit.
Made in China hand tools are of very high quality in this DIY Complex. Cost a wee bit more than buy in Singapore/Australia.The Made in Japan tools cost a bomb.
Flux. I bought USA "Ultra Flux" specifically for Silver Brazing.Used " their Silvaloy" Silver Solder Rods.
Your expertise is sought on this brand of flux and silver brazing rods. Thanks for sharing Silver Soldering expertise.
Pouring "Dogs & Cats" so not fishing this weekend. Save some $$$$ on diesel fuel.

Gus
 
Thats the right flux and solder gus, joint looks OK from what I can see of it.
 
Hi Gus,
As Jason says- 'OK'
And with thoughts of Monday the 18th February, I, too, will be celebrating yet another Chinese New Year but in Oriental Lodge no 9371 here in Newcastle. I keep getting more invitations to HongKong but we are getting old.

Meantime, my Christmas Greetings to one and all, 'Slange Var' for the Scottish Hogmanay.

Enjoy, it's only metal

Norman
 
Last edited:
Thats the right flux and solder gus, joint looks OK from what I can see of it.

Thank you. Guru Jason.
At red heat ,the silver rod melted and flow by itself.

About to finish up the Quick Change Tool Post.

Latest.
The hose barb too small and the hose clip too big. Have to machine anther bigger hose barb.


Gus
 
Chuck as I said elsewhere that Stay-brite solder you have is not suitable for borax based flux, it came with a zinc chloride flux so you need to use that or a rosin one.

The Stay-silv is not a hard solder/braze but a high temp (400degC) soft solder that does have a couple of % silver content. Its is not classes as a silver solder/braze until the temps get to about 620deg C. If buying Harris products you want Safety-silv or at a pinch for non boiler work Stay-silv

The solder will melt before the borak and you will just end up overheating the solder and it won't stick to the metal

J

So, Jason, as I understand you're saying that I can solder mild steel with the Sta-Brite or Sta-Silv solder I have using the same Kester rosin flux I use with electronics 63/37lead/tin solder? Just need a tourch (propane/Mapp/Acet&air)to get enough heat?

Chuck
 
Shooting buddy of mine was employed at the Bremerton Naval Shipyard. His job was sweating pipe joints with silver solder on nuclear submarines. I think I could say he was qualified. Gary gave me two of his old torches, both shop made and resemble baby rosebuds. His biggest complaint was getting in all the tight places, using mirrors etc. Gas was oxy/acet. His point was you want volumous heat not a directed pencil point of heat. Heat the part not just a spot he said. Sounded good to me and works if I do my part. The welding is the fast fun part. The assembly and preparation is the important part for success. Those little 3/16", 90deg rosebuds work like a champ. Fast and controlable.
 
So, Jason, as I understand you're saying that I can solder mild steel with the Sta-Brite or Sta-Silv solder I have using the same Kester rosin flux I use with electronics 63/37lead/tin solder? Just need a tourch (propane/Mapp/Acet&air)to get enough heat?

Chuck

No the tin based Sta-brite can use the zinc chloride or a rosin based flux. As this is not a brazing solder. Though I have no experience with your Kestor flux, best check with harris

The Sta-silv needs a borax based flux as it is a brazing rod
 
You are right. I messed up two good parts before getting best results on a third piece.Silver Brazing can be very tricky.Brazing temperature got to be right.Tubal Cain has written a book on same subject--------Soldering and Brazing.
Brazing torches must have the power.Rod selection critical.

Gus.

Hi Big Bro Goldstar,

Its Christmas .So Gus bought a "South Korean"Double Barrel Torch for double
silver brazing power. Did not cost a bomb.For now I have nothing to silver braze.Will also have to use up two existing Mapp Gas before I can try out new torch. Plan to build a 2" OD boller. Hopefully I get sufficient heat to braze 40% Silver Rods.

IMG_1156.jpg
 
Hi Big Bro Goldstar,

Its Christmas .So Gus bought a "South Korean"Double Barrel Torch for double
silver brazing power. Did not cost a bomb.For now I have nothing to silver braze.Will also have to use up two existing Mapp Gas before I can try out new torch. Plan to build a 2" OD boller. Hopefully I get sufficient heat to braze 40% Silver Rods.

Hi Gus
Good ole Santa. I hope that things are going to get really hot for you-- if you know what I mean?

Santa brought me a rather nice Airfix Spitfire mug to replace my nearly worn out R.J.Mitchell- its designer, one. May not seem much but I once lived with Spitfires and things.

So wishing you- and the rest of the forum- a healthy and very happy New Year.

Norman
 
Hi Gus
Good ole Santa. I hope that things are going to get really hot for you-- if you know what I mean?

Santa brought me a rather nice Airfix Spitfire mug to replace my nearly worn out R.J.Mitchell- its designer, one. May not seem much but I once lived with Spitfires and things.

So wishing you- and the rest of the forum- a healthy and very happy New Year.

Norman

Hi Big Bro,
My 89 year young Aussie Boss was trained to fly Spitfires in Australia during WW ll But soon after he got his Wings the war was over. He has sweet memories flying Spitfires.Just visited him October 2012 and he bought me lunch in Bandanoon a Scottish villiage NW of Sydney.
Was expensive lunch for me as I had to fly over from Singapore and drive to his house--------"Cowan Brae". Boss took me off the street and gave me a job which I worked for 32 years. Good boss taught me all he knew about small---------big Ingersoll-Rand Air Compressors
 

Latest posts

Back
Top