My First Glow Plug Engine

[gus]

Hi Guys,

After getting over cold feet and procrastination I have decided to plunge in.

Your expert advice required so that I can avoid the pitfalls/quagmire and throw nothing into the scrap bin.

 

[Jasonb]

Its a nice little engine to build Gus.

Have a look at my build on ME site and just ask if you have any questions.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=70308

Don't bore the crankcase out to 30mm like the text, stick to the drawing and also make sure you get the wall thicknesses correct using the 28.2mm size.

The crankshaft drawing is a bit hard to see where the couple of 0.2mm dimensions are taken from so best to look at the drawings on teh web and blow them up good and large.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/glenn.royds/RCM&E/

See my comment in the sparkplug thread.

J

 

[gus]

Hi Jason,
Thanks for the kind tips. While considering to post,I had no idea a Guru would appear to give me good guidance.
Your workmanship is fantastically of very high standard.You must be a vet Tool&Die Maker.

Too bad,I have gone ahead and finished the crankcase and about to turn the bush. Been scratching my head on
draft work instructions to turn the cylinder housing.Same will be done using your fotos.The Model Engineer Magazine presumed readers who go into making this engine do have sufficient experience.For Gus it is a learning curve.So far so good with no contribution to the scrap bin.If I get to complete and run engine,I plan to do it all over again building same engine or another model.Thanks for the tips-----very useful.Come at the right time when I turn cylinder housing.

Gus from faraway Singapore.

 

[gus]

Got started and made some near fatal mistakes.
Attached is the WIP. Running gear taking shape.Pardon the finishing as Gus has poor showmanship.

 

[SilverSanJuan]

Looks like your off to a great start Gus.

Todd

 

[rhitee93]

Looking good Gus

 

[gus]

Looks like your off to a great start Gus.

Todd

Hi Todd.

Most of the parts require some skills which I can ever dreamed I could do it.
The Crankshaft with its intake port was scary and while milling the port hole I got worried. See Crankshaft. Tapping oil helps improve surface finish when turning shaft. A few dabs of Tapmatic Tapping Oil when dieing the shaft thread gave me good looking threads too.

 

[gus]

Its a nice little engine to build Gus.

Have a look at my build on ME site and just ask if you have any questions.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=70308

Don't bore the crankcase out to 30mm like the text, stick to the drawing and also make sure you get the wall thicknesses correct using the 28.2mm size.

The crankshaft drawing is a bit hard to see where the couple of 0.2mm dimensions are taken from so best to look at the drawings on teh web and blow them up good and large.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/glenn.royds/RCM&E/

See my comment in the sparkplug thread.

J

Hi Jason

I am faithfully reading all your slides. Your Crankshaft slides certainlyhelp to write ISO 9002 Work Instructions to turn shaft and mill the port with the
timing angle.Sorry.I could not erase ISO from my brains as I went thru hell to get plant certified.
Will also make a jig to turn and drill the hole for the crankpin.
W/o same jig,I have fear that crankpin may not run true.Misalignment could ruin the piston rod.
This engine building sure gave new experience and new skills.
Thanks Again.

 

[Anko]

Hey Gus you engine is looking great!

Make a build post on the "work in progress" subforum so we can follow your build! I will be looking forward

Saludos

 

[gus]

Hi Anko,
As requested.I am posting some fotos.
When you have mini lathe and mini mill and limited tools,it is tough.
Used WW ll centering on four jaw chuck with scriber block and eyeball.
Coolant if required is by manual brush on. Tapmatic Oil used for tapping serves well to give smooth finish.
It is Friday Afternoon.Will take weekend break-----fishing.

 

[gus]

Latest.
Multi-pass surface milling wilth a small endmill plus handfeed is killing Gus.
Flycutter required badly.Cost a bomb to buy.Delivery from overseas suppliers will take 10 days.
Went ahead to make one using a hex bolt. 3/4' Hex Bolt was a gift from a fishing buddy.
See fotos.With flycutter,I do it in one pass.

 

[gus]

OK .The engine is getting closer to completion.Cylinder liner done and fitted in.
Next to turn CI piston.

Make DIY honing tools for piston and liner.Your 2 cents worth is welcome.

Tomorrow is week fishing.Sat'd n Sun'd.

 

[Jasonb]

You are making good progress there Gus.

J

 

[digiex-chris]

That thing is gorgeous! I've been looking for a good "from scratch" glow engine to build since I've done all these worn out glow engine re-lines and I've convinced myself I can make a liner/piston fit properly. I don't subscribe to the magazine, is there somewhere I can buy the plans? Or, what issue is the magazine so I can buy a reprint?

regarding piston/liner fit tools, I find it easier to lap a slight taper into the liner, and keep lapping till the piston fit, rather than fitting the piston to a perfectly cylindrical liner. A little tight is good, when it's run in it'll be just as it should be. A bonus is the lapping the liner takes care of surface finish and burrs from cutting the ports. With the slight (0.0002" over 1" distance) taper, I could easily see when I was close without going too far. I'll see if I can dig up my liner lapping tool and take some pics. I just lap my pistons by hand using a chunk of flat aluminum.

How did you hold the liner to cut the ports? I've been doing it on a mandrel on a rotary table, but would love to see other options.

 

[digiex-chris]

nevermind on the magazine number, I looked on the first post and it's right on the cover! I wonder if they'll ship one to Canada...

Does that one issue have everything you need articles and drawings wise to build it?

 

[Jasonb]

Chris, all the plans are on the net and I have done a build thread on ME forum which shows all my setups and a bit of cosmetic work. Its spread over 5 or 6 issues.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/glenn.royds/RCM&E/

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=70308

J

 

[digiex-chris]

fantastic! I can't wait to get started! Gotta order some steel for the liner. I have a pile of 6061 kicking around, would that be good enough for the block?

I've started with the carb, since I need a carb for another commercial engine I'm making a liner for at the moment and carbs had scared me for a while with the figuring out how to time when to change the mixture curve to get the low end mixture correct, but it looks like there's no allowance for a different mixture at idle on this carb at all! I like that! Considering many fliers don't even know there's a low end adjustment on their carbs, I don't think this will prove detrimental.

I've gone through the whole carb except successfully making the fuel nipple. Broken every drill near 1mm that I have trying to go 19mm deep. It was late at night, I should have realized I should be going half from each end and not go deeper than the drill flutes.

 

[Jasonb]

The alloy for the block is not too critical, just the HE15 for the conrod.

You could drill most of the nipple larger and just the end 1.0mm

J

 

[digiex-chris]

Great idea!

How critical is that hole since the restriction is the needle further up the fuel line? My next closest drill size I have is 0.045" (1.1mm)

 

[Jasonb]

That should be OK

J