The Drill Doctor

[rake60]

This tool gets as much use as any other in my home shop.

It's the Drill Doctor model 350X drill bit sharpener.
It will sharpen bits from 3/32" to 1/2" quickly and perfectly every time.
Most bits over 1/8" I am perfectly capable of sharpening by hand on a
bench grinder. When I can put it into this little machine, twist it a few
times and it's done, why bother? I have bits that are quite literally 1/2
their original length that still drill straight, clean and on size thanks to
this little tool.
It would be nice if it could handle smaller sizes, but then again when the
real small bits fail there usually isn't much left to sharpen.

Rick

 

[tattoomike68]

I have a cheapo knock off one that hooks to a power drill. I never used it though.

Many people swear by them, I will have to rig mine up and try it out.

 

[lugnut]

Rick did you have to tweek the Drill Dr. a little to get it to work right? I've heard stories. I've been thinking about one because my poor old eyes ain't as good as they once was. I generaly get by pretty well by hand but now with all these little holes in the model engines, I think it's time.
I see your's is the 350 model. Do you think that's the best one? I know they make a 500 and a 750, Have you tried either of those?
Mel

 

[rake60]

I didn't have to make any adjustment to mine. It worked perfectly right
out of the box.

The only real difference between the 350X and 500X is the more
expensive 500X grinds a 135 degree point as opposed to the standard
118 degree point. My hand grinding gage is 59 degrees so even my
hand sharpened bits are 118. Drill Doctor has a model comparison chart
available at Drill Doctor Model Chart that explains the differences.

 

[Tin Falcon]

I have had a drill doctor for a while one of the older 500s. I would like to have one of the new ones because the bugs have been fixed. the old one has not really paid for it self yet. IMHO the 350 model is too limiting the 500 is adjustable for a couple different angles and it will do split point bit near impossible by hand. The 750 has an extra tool holder for 1/2 to 3/4 bits. and a little rack to hold the bit holders. Depending on price differences IMHO the 500 is the best suited to the home shop. it has the flexibility. and anything above 1/2 inch is relatively easy to hand grind.
Tin

 

[rake60]

Tin do you use a lot of split point or 135 degree bits?
I never have but I'm old and set in my ways.

My best set of TiN coated bits cost me about $100
The 350X can be found on sale for $60
Best price I've ever seen on the 500X was $150

I don't think it would pay for it's self in my shop, but it is an interesting
subject. Who else uses 135 or split point bits, and why?

 

[IanN]

Hi Rake60

If you look at the 'point' of a drill bit you see that the point is really a short flat line. Split point - or four facet drill point as it is called in the UK - removes the 'land' at the point of the drill and makes it much easier to locate the point of the drill.

When done properly a four facet drill can be used on intersecting scribed lines with no need to centre punch the location.

Ian.

 

[Tin Falcon]

Rake:
the 500 can be had for $ 99- 120
http://www.gosale.com/4931395/drill-doctor-500x?gclid=CNa3mZXOgo4CFSgRGgodJVxeLw

As Ian said the split point reduces the tendency of the drill bit to walk. One of the shops I worked at used a lot of drill bits and tended not to sharpen them . Good stuff ,American made. When I left the boss gave the scrap bits a couple of 3lb coffee cans full. That is why I bought the drill doctor. the 135 angle is better on hard tough material. I used to have to drill out inconell rivets on aircraft engine parts. Also one shop I worked at we worked with some tough alloy steel pre- hardened to around a RC 38 . We drilled and bored on the cnc. Some of the parts we started the hole with a 5/16 135 degree split point.
If you work with stainless you know how important dead sharp tools are IMO a drill doctor and split point 135s are the way to go for accurate efficient work. Once the bit gets dull and stops cutting the ss work hardens quickly then you have an uphill battle.

Sell your 350 on ebay for more than you paid for it and buy a 500x LOL.
BTW sears has the DD500X for $110 buy it on line pick up at the local store.
Tin

 

[rake60]

See, your showing how set in my ways I really am.
For the past 29 years every hole has been centerdrilled before drilling
with a 118 degree bit. I'll have to try a few 135's!

 

[Hilmar]

Tin,

It works for me.I use it quit a bit. That is the old 500.
But the I find out: You send the old one back and for $65.00 you
will get the latest model in return. Now you have a 750.
I did and it comes with one chuck, for 1/8 -3/4 .
Much better and more adjustments.
It will be the latest model
Hilmar

 

[Davyboy]

I've used a DD750 at work. IMHO it's a total POS. tried for 3 hours, got about 4 good drill bits out of it. Yes i paid attention to flute location, collet technique, and uniform "feel" when sharpening. the flutes came out different, clearance came out backwards, randomly. FWIW : YES I did read the instructions. My money will buy packages of commonly used drills that are too small to sharpen by hand, and toss them when dull. sizes like #29 (Enco 300-0329) for $0.39 each. I can do 3/16 drills OK or a little smaller, but if I need tapped holes fine threads, then a new point and on size holes make a difference.

 

[Tin Falcon]

Hilmar:
thanks for the tip was not aware of the trade in deal. I also considered offering the old 500 to a friend for the trade in value.
I just invested in a craftsman tool set and also was just at a model engine show and spent a bit from the tool fund something to think about though.
Tin

 

[rake60]

IMHO it's a total POS.

I've never gotten a bad result from mine. Maybe I just got lucky and
got a good one? If you can't get a repeatable answer to your efforts I'd
think you have a defective unit. They’re pretty much idiot proof.
I'd be suggesting your purchaser e-mail Drill Doctor if everyone there is
having the same issue.

There is one application were we can not use the bit sharpener we have
at work. That is on a few of the special long bits. They have a different
twist rate and the machine will not line the flutes up properly.

Rick

 

[Davyboy]

Rick, you may be onto something, I'm not the first or only one to use that machine. Some of the other guys are pretty rough. I still wouldn't have a DD in my shop.

Dave

 

[wareagle]

I got a DD750X from my better half a while back, and haven't used it until today. I broke a small bit and thought that I would try it out and see if it would do a good job. I went through all of the instructions, set up the broken bit, and went at it. I had to reset the bit in the chuck once to finish up the tip, but it came out perfectly.

Blind luck? Hmmm.... :?

So, I went to the old bit bin where there are several dozen "tired" drill bits, and grabbed probably 10 and sharpened them. Every time, they came out perfect. I did the split point on several, and that takes a little more effort to make sure both sides match, but it still is easily done.

Well, for the true test. I popped a few holes in some scrap steel, and each hole came out to size, and the bits produced a chip just like a new bit would.

My observations: What I can see with the unit is that it is easy to use, but one needs to be methodical in setting the bits up before grinding. Also, there is a "feel" to it, or at least I think so. It is easy to miss a simple step which would yield an undesirable result. In my opinion, this little unit looks like it will save some time and money going forward.

All the usual disclaimers, no affiliation, your mileage may vary, TT&L due upon signing, some assembly required, may not be available in all states, read your warning labels before using the product, this product may cause side effects, blah, blah blah....

 

[shred]

I'm about as far from an expert as you can get, but my DD's turned bits that didn't cut for anything into bits that drill holes about as well as I can. Now I need one that can fix all the tiny bits I've been snapping lately...

 

[wareagle]

shred,

I did a couple of 1/8" bits yesterday, and they cut very well. IIRC, the literature says they will sharpen down to a 3/32" bit. Any smaller, and it is probably just as cheap to replace the bits as it is to sharpen them.

BTW Where are you located at? I see we share some of the same dirt.

 

[lugnut]

Well after reading you guys praise of the DD last night, I checked a few prices on the internet. I'm still not sure just how it happened :roll: but my new DD 750 will be here some time later this coming week. $129 and they (Ammazon.com) pay the shipping.
I'll let you know how it works
Mel

 

[wareagle]

lugnut,

I think you will be pleased. Just read through the directions (mine came with a DVD). There are a few little procedures that must be followed to get the desired results.

Congats, and let us know what you think!

 

[shred]

shred,

I did a couple of 1/8" bits yesterday, and they cut very well. IIRC, the literature says they will sharpen down to a 3/32" bit. Any smaller, and it is probably just as cheap to replace the bits as it is to sharpen them.

BTW Where are you located at? I see we share some of the same dirt.

Yeah, I've repaired some 1/8" bits, can't remember if I tried anything smaller. The trouble with the tiny bits is they're cheap, but the minimum is usually a dozen per size and I tend to scatter my breakages around different sizes...

Btw, I'm in Austin.