spot putty

[Loose nut]

Has anyone had any experience using auto body spot glaze or body filler on brass. Does it stick well or is there a tendency for it to peel off. Thin coat application.

 

[Tin Falcon]

For models get good stuff.
I have had good experience with evercoat products
this should work well.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=295
or this
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=296
Tin

 

[Metal Butcher]

Has anyone had any experience using auto body spot glaze or body filler on brass. Does it stick well or is there a tendency for it to peel off. Thin coat application.

Loose nut, If your talking about the red lacquer based Glazing Putty, I never use it directly on any metal. You should use a thin coat of self etching primer first, and then apply a thin layer of the putty over any imperfections. I usually apply it with a safety razor blade on flat surfaces. After it dries I level it with a wet sanding using #400 wet/dry sand paper. One more thin coat of primer over the glazed areas and you should be ready for your final color coat(s).

Trying to hide imperfections with heavy coats of paint is not a good approach. The thinner the finish is, the better it looks and sticks. And since a finish coat is nothing more than a mirror reflection of the surface beneath, preparation is every thing.

A self etching primer is a must, and thin coats of lacquer are best. I recommend staying away from enamels that take a long time to dry.

-MB

 

[Ed T]

There are two families of spot putty. Solvent based and two part. Both should be available at any auto parts store or auto body supply. The solvent based stuff is inexpensive and dries fairly fast, but, since it is solvent based, it will continue to "dry" for some time and, in doing so, it will continue to shrink until all the solvent is gone. Depending on how much material is involved this can take days or weeks to finish out gassing and shrinking. If you don't want to take the risk of future shrinkage, use the two part stuff. It's kind of like thin bondo and is handled similarly. It hardens by a chemical cure and once it's hard its finished and future risk of shrinkage should be mimimal. Both should be OK for brass as long as you're not talking about a brazed joint. There have been some issues with this due to the difficulty involved in getting all the flux out of the area being filled.