New Member looking to buy a Smithy 3 in 1 for small hobby work. Good or bad move?

[copper]

Wanting to buy a 3 in 1 and am liking the smithy granite's but just about every forum I read about them guys are bashing them to no end. looking to build small engines of all types and motorcycle parts and a little gunsmithing. Any opinions would be helpful. Thanks.

 

[hitandmissman]

I have a Smithy that I bought in the 90's. At this time it is the only lathe I have but the milling part gets very little use. Not enough x and y table movement. If you can buy two seperate machines that would work better. Just my thoughts.

 

[cfellows]

I agree with hitnmiss man. The 3-in-1 machines look like a nice, inexpensive compromise, but compromise is the operative word. Perhaps the biggest complaint against them is the need to constantly tear down setups when you go from lathe to milling and back.

You'll be hard pressed to find a good lathe and a good milling machine for the same price as a 3-in-1 machine, but if you start with a lathe, then buy a milling machine later, I'll think you'll be happier in the long run.

Chuck

 

[lensman57]

Hi,

I don't know anything about the machine you mentioned but unless you are short of space and want to economise then I would advise you to consider buying separates as they offer more flexibility .


Regards,

A.G

 

[Bastelmike]

Hi copper,

generally me don't think the 3in1 are good machines. Usually the milling component isn't very rigid, table is short and cross movement very limited. Also I don't believe these machines come close to industrial standards in precision.

A friend of mine has a 3in1, because he has only a small shop in the rear of his garage. He's not very happy with it.
I am no gunsmith but to my understanding you need a lathe with minimum width b. centers 36-40". Or you need one with a large spindel bore, probably better to have both, except you work only on short guns (revolvers...).
Most 3in1 are smaller.

My proposal would be starting with a lathe and doing some milling on the lathe and if you get more space and money to add a mill later.

Mike

 

[copper]

Thanks for the replies guys. Thats what most people are saying, get seperate units. Are there any smithy granite users that can chime in.

 

[Tin Falcon]

If you want someone to show you how great smithys are go to there web site.
these vidios will show you what can be done and some basics.

http://www.smithy.com/traning-videos
your dime you have to decide.

we can only offer advice.
Tin

 

[Lance]

Thanks for the replies guys. Thats what most people are saying, get seperate units. Are there any smithy granite users that can chime in.

Not a smithy user but I have an enco 3n1. Very alike. The lathe is great, but the mill is another story altogether. A column mill has to much play in opinon. After much shimming, part fabricating, and a DRO it is now to an acceptable level to build model gas engine. Table is small and requires some creative rigging and rerigging to get a part such as a base where you can mill the length on the Y-axis. Buy the time you mount a rotory table with a chuck you are out of room on the z-axis.
I am currently shopping for a real mill.
Hope this helps.

 

[lensman57]

Thanks for the replies guys. Thats what most people are saying, get seperate units. Are there any smithy granite users that can chime in.

Hi,

If I may just throw in another piece of advice?! If you finally decide to get separates, please make sure that the fittings are interchangable between the lathe and the mill. For example I have both a Serline lathe and mill, also a Taig lathe and mill, because both systems have a 3/4 -16 head stock thread I can move a chuck between the lathe, mill, the rotary table and so on . This not only saves me a lot of time in setting up but also helps me keep a reasonable degree of accuracy, I can not say the same thing about my Sieg lathe and mill as the lathe relies on a back plate mounting system, at the best of times this is not very convenient nor accurate.

Regards,

A.G

 

[Tin Falcon]

A caravat here. A recurring theme I see here is lack if z axis room . this is not a problem limited to 3 in one machines.

the seig 7 x 10 is tight on Z for drilling operations. depending on tooling used the z can get tight on the seig x-2 mill.
the new horizontal vertical mill from seig again tight on z axis.
Small Harbor frieght drill presses have the same issue.
small hobby machines are a er small and z axis can seem to disappear fast.


but do not fear some of these problems can be prevented with good tool selection up front and planning.

1) drill bits a 1/2 long jobbers bit is probably not going to work well in the above cases DAMHIKT. a set of screw machine drill bits is a hobby machinist best friend I must admit I need to buy a set of these myself.

2) tool holding : collects that fit inside the spindle save lots of room and there is no good reason not to use a collet to hold a drill bit. use care thought a drill bit that has hung up on a drill chuck will likely have a burr . this burr must be removed before placing in a collect. it can interfere with holding and damage the collet. And use the correct size collet or you will have problems.

3) a DRO or cnc control can eliminate much of the need for a space thieving rotary table. another option is to make a low profile indexing rotary table.

4) ad a riser block an in or two rise can make a huge difference in these little machines.


So yes by all means consider z axis when choosing a machine but if you plan ahead an educate yourself to options you may find yourself with a usable machine sooner and cheaper than if you hold out for the Bridgeport. .
Tin

 

[Sshire]

When I was buying my machines, a bit over a year ago, I looked at the Smithy.
I got the same responses about 3 in 1 machines.
Finally got (for less money including shipping) the Grizzly G0602 10x22 lathe AND a Grizzly G0704 mill (generically a Weiss BF20). Couldn't be happier.
Yesterday I was making 4 parts which required going back and foth from mill to lathe. This would have been a real pain with one machine.

 

[copper]

Does anyone here know if a kit is available for the g0704 mill to make the x axis have a power feed? I was looking at that mill also but I like the fact that the smithy will give me a powerfeed on both of the axis on the table, x and I believe the z axis.

 

[sssfox]

I think these are identical except for color.
I have the second one on the Lathemaster mill:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Power-Feed-for-G0704/T23010
http://www.lathemaster.com/POWER FEED LMT25L.htm

 

[copper]

Thanks guys for the info and opinions, Another question, some lathes say they have a gear head? Is this better than a belt driven lathe? Remember newbee here. Ihave turned down drive roller shafts after being welded up and fit them to a bearing, thats my experience. Thanks.

 

[Sshire]

I got the Lathemaster power feed. Works flawlessly; direct bolt-on. Don't know how I did without it. Finishes are better and my right arm is much happier.

 

[Sshire]

The gear head refers to not having to change gears for threading. Geared head or not, most lathes are belt drive.
If I did a lot of single point threading, I'd probably wish I had a geared head but with the very limited amount I do relative to other turning operations, the 10 minutes to change gears isn't a big deal for me.