Multi-pole model generator.

[old-and-broken]

Starting this build with a question.

I've never used a carbide end mill before. I've never used an end mill this small before, of any type. I presume the small size will require a bit more speed. I'm working with a 1/8", 2 flute spiral type. I got a picture of the tool as you see. The tool is in an MT3, 1/8" collet, mounted directly in the spindle. The mill is cranked down very near the bottom of the column. Again, I'm presuming this will be helpful, as regards rigidity and will minimize flex. I've heard those are important with carbide tooling, especially this small.

Now good people, please mentor me, as to what I've got right, and what I've got wrong.

The work piece is not clamped down yet(rotary table T-slots are too small for the T-nuts I have currently). I'll get that sorted after I find out what I need to do with regard to the tooling.

This build began when my grandson dismantled an old box fan. My first post about that is here:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f12/model-sized-generator-parts-21577/

Thanks for any help you can provide this 'green-horn'

 

[old-and-broken]

Alrighty then.

I'll spare you guys any more questions of such a difficult nature in the future.

I'm going to just wade in and do what I know to do. Should I make any discoveries about small carbide end mills along the way, so much the better.
I'll just post the pictures here and chalk up the lack of chit chat to unrealistic expectations on my part.

so, yeah, whatever.

 

[Till]

The endmill shown above is for abrasive materials such as fibre enforced plastics, wood, non enforced plastics, circuit cardboard and so on and suitable for rather soft non-ferrous metals such as non-hardened copper and some kinds of aluminium.
Its made of very hard and brittle carbide with a very thin cutting edge. (high rpm, low cutting force) It calls for >15000+rpm with very steady feed. continous cut and cutting depth.
What you want is a flexible, forgiving tool suitable for ferrous materials. Coated HSS with serveral flutes (e.g. 4 flutes) is the tool of your choice.

 

[RonGinger]

I think you will have a big mess trying to cut that laminated stator. Unless you can arrange something to keep the downard pressure real close to the cut line, maybe a steel ring just the diameter of the inside below the slots.

Why are you trying to cut it?

 

[old-and-broken]

Okay, the carbide end mill is out and a cheap chinese 3/16 four flute is in.

Before

After

Progress will be slow. Off to the 'job' in a few minutes, after one more cup of joe.

till later then.

 

[MCRIPPPer]

im not a fan of carbide end mills. i used one (1" diameter) at work on a sharp brand milling machine (bridgeport clone) which is very rigid and has im pretty sure a 40 taper? is that what its called? anyway the spindle has a very steep taper and uses two keys that bolt on in order to drive the tool. it dulled the carbide end mill quickly when i used conventional milling on hot roll. climb milling works better for every thing but this big ole' mill broke a 1 inch hss end mill no sweat while climb milling. that carbide end mill really made that big machine shake!

 

[old-and-broken]

Okay
the cheap chinese end mill lasted for about three good cuts then it dulled and started forcing swarf between the laminations.

Out with the cheap endmill and back in with the original one.

the cuts are all complete. in the picture you can see the damage to a couple of projections where the lamination is separated slightly.

The carbide bit cuts very well, in case anyone cares.

 

[Maxx]

Just spotted your thread, here is a newly made video about speed.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIUS_0xfeGg[/ame]