mitutoyo micrometer

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itowbig

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hey guys "n" gals i found a mitutoyo microwmeter digital (that part dont work) aparently some doper had it. so i had to put it back together and so far it works ok. but i checked it with my digital calipers (i know there probaly not right either) but acording to those calipers its off by a bit and so i would like to ajust the microwmeter to the calipers or some how get it to be some what accurate. if this is even possable. but if i could get them both to read the same at least i could have somewhat accurate readings when making parts. i sure welcome any and all answers. i sould probaly just toss them but i would like to try and fix this. i had two use two diferent microwmeters to fix one both where the same mitutoyo. i have model # i think 293-761 or 7082265

or am i wasting time trying t even work with the darn thing.
 
ya i dont have the spanner . nor do i have an idea how to adjust it. ill give the link a look thank you
 
If you look where the barrel is pressed up against the frame you will see a small hole about 1mm diameter. A small spanner is used to rotate the barrel until the lines are aligned between the barrel and thimble. -Mike
 
itowbig,

PM me your address and I'll send you a Mitutoyo spanner wrench along with how to adjust the micrometer.

Bob
 
Bob pm sent and Thank you

Pilly Thank you this opens my eyes a bit on how it works
:bow: :bow: :bow:

 
The bottom of the Starrett page shows how to do it. Also, the best way to clean the faces is to mic a piece of paper and pull it out. This will remove oil and dirt deposits. This method also works with calipers.

The only problem with the Starrett page is how to adjust the play in the spindle. The threads closest to .000 receive the most wear. When you back the spindle all the way out to where the adjusting collar is, the spindle threads do not receive any wear. If the mic has had a lot of use, the Thimble will be hard to turn by the collar, but will be loose within the working range of the mic after adjustment.

A trick for adjusting for this is to hold the mic in your left hand and pull the thimble back and forth. Do this with the mic reading somewhere around .050 to .100. You will be able to "feel" the play. Adjust the play out according to the Starrett page until you can't "feel" it.

Do this first and then set the zero line. If the mic has .0001 resolution, make sure line up with both 0 lines on the "tenths" scale when zeroing.

I hope this makes sense. If you have any questions, feel free to fire away.

http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/images/objects/2900/2856.pdf
 
If you're going to check a micrometer for accuracy, it's important to use a set of gage blocks that cause the spindle to seat at different orientations so drunken thread errors will be noticed. The preferred set for inch micrometers is: 0.105, 0.210, 0.315, 0.420, 0.500, 0.605, 0.710, 0.815, 0.920, 1.000. For metric micrometers the preferred set is: 3.1, 6.5, 9.7, 12.5, 15.8, 19.0, 21.9, 25.0.
 
Yes Marv, as a former Calibration tech. I agree with you. Unfortunately, I doubt too many people in this hobby own a set of blocks. I am fortunate enough to have assorted blocks that failed calibration at my former employer but are fine for what I do. Then again, if the play is adjusted out and the mic is zeroed, 99% of the mics will be more then adequate for what we do in this hobby. A properly adjusted collar will really do wonders for a micrometer. I have seen mics that were all over the place by a couple of tenths or more be "dead nuts" on after the play was adjusted out.
 
All of my mics and calipers are checked to standards.
I own a set of 1" to 5" standards for my 0 to 6" outside mics.
These are the smallest of that set.

Standards.jpg


Even standards need to be checked and verified once a year
to be acceptable for a job shop. Last time mine were checked I was
given an exception report on the 2" standard. The QC man found
it to be 2.00023" I was quick to write that down for future
reference! ::)

Rick

 

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