Mery 6-stroke kit.

Discussion in 'Engines From Castings' started by Jack3M, Jan 13, 2019.

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  1. Oct 4, 2019 #141

    PhilL

    PhilL

    PhilL

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    Looking great Jack!
    "First one was piece of cake, the second one made me make a third" <--- I seriously laughed out loud at that!! But oh so true.
     
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  2. Oct 5, 2019 #142

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    The skids are essentially done, will put some planking in some areas down the road. 20191004_125400.jpg 20191004_125419.jpg 20191004_125444.jpg
    Don't have to worry about it tipping over onto the flywheel side and fall off the bench anymore now.

    After several days of research, conversation with Phil, and looking ahead to parts and fixin's that the explosion chambers need for completion the process was begun.

    First they were cut apart and the boxes squared up. Then the mount face was brought to dimension which is from the center of the valve stem. The overall length is not critical and I chose 2" as an equal number.
    20191004_130306.jpg
    The holes for mounting are not critical in my method, so marked out all around for them, and drilled them so as to use as guide for location of mount bolts on the cylinder. These were then glued to the cylinder with the shown locktite.
    20191004_142105.jpg
    These were then marked with a punch when dry (can't think of right name of the set for doing this right now). Then the chambers were tapped off the cylinder and I found a new advantage. Originally the plan was to get the cylinder side all set and make the gasket and use that to locate the hole into the cylinder. The loctite made a great location mark and these were drilled out from the one side only.
    20191004_143648.jpg
    So probably after the weekend the plan is gets involved. The cylinder will have to be removed to drill for the mounting studs. Quite a few things to disassemble and not loose parts LOL. Have a day folks
     
  3. Oct 5, 2019 #143

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    Maybe I should do the basic exhaust chambers too so it is only necessary to disassemble this on time for these processes. Will still need to remove the piston and do some creative removal of material from the solid chunk. Apparently one has to think about the fact there is a shaft on one side taking up volume, and not the other meaning that there is big difference in volume. Might need to get my engineer son to do the numbers for me.
     
  4. Oct 6, 2019 #144

    PhilL

    PhilL

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    Looking fantastic Jack.
     
  5. Oct 7, 2019 #145

    Philipintexas

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    When it comes to “balancing” compression in both cylinders, I fashioned a simple compression gauge and spun the wheel with a drill motor and aimed for equal readings from each end. I made extra long threads on the rod and could position the piston as needed.

    I noticed you have a key to hook-up the flywheel and 1/2” shaft. My engine fired with some authority and given the mass of the 10” flywheel, quickly loosened the key. I ended up drilling & threading an Allen bolt into the junction, half in the shaft & half in the wheel. This holds well but makes re-assembly a little complicated as the wheel must be in the exact location to assemble.
     
  6. Oct 7, 2019 #146

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    Ah, so that is why you had the plugs for those holes. That is a way, but Gary says it has too much compression, so this will also help along with making the stroke as equal as possible for balance purposes. Kind of chilling a bit on this, the last fishing is as soon as the fish get here and will only be a few days, then to get the boat out of the slip and winterize before I get into something I don't want any distraction from. Am certainly itchin' to go on it, but that only increases the value down the road.
     
  7. Oct 7, 2019 #147

    PhilL

    PhilL

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    Jack,
    Read the newsletters. They speak about the compression. If I recall, you'll need to cut the piston nearly 1/2 the thickness to reduce the compression. DON'T rely on leaks as a reduction method.

    PhilipinTexas,
    You said your flywheel key came loose. Did you use a tapered key? A correctly fitted tapered key should stay.
     
  8. Oct 9, 2019 #148

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    Working slowly on explosion chambers. Made the tops from hard 1/8 brass. Did the glue on thing and drilled a pair of holes to tap and use as insurance against the cover getting loose and messing with alignment. All drilled and tapped to 2.5 mm. Then drilled the valve stem hole from the bottom, relocated from the top with a shaft to center. Drilled first the relief and then the press fit area for the valve guide. Took and reworked a drill bit to get the angle for the face that the valve seats against. Also the fuel inlet was drilled and tapped. Not certain on where I want to put the spark plugs yet so have not tapped the other hole as yet.
    . 20191007_091547.jpg 20191007_125136.jpg 20191007_162450.jpg 20191007_163958.jpg 20191007_164114.jpg
     
  9. Oct 9, 2019 #149

    Philipintexas

    Philipintexas

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    They must have changed the castings, mine had very little sealing surface around the edges. Blew gaskets too easily. Yours has a much smaller chamber with lots of area around the periphery.

    I tried several key configurations on mine before giving up and doing it a different way.. I really think the great mass of the wheel relative to the 1/2" shaft makes a key pretty hard to fit effectively..
     
  10. Oct 10, 2019 #150

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    Did either of you try loctite in addition to the key?
     
  11. Oct 10, 2019 #151

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    Valve guides should have been an easy one two. Instead it was a hellish 6 pair before I got a pair that I could use. Funny how some of the simple stuff can be so difficult. But they got done and reamed. That rod is just a piece of the stainless that will be used for the stem of the valve testing for smooth fit. Note the two extra holes that were off, fortunately could work around them. 20191010_120657.jpg
     
  12. Oct 15, 2019 at 1:32 PM #152

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    Not dead here, just having issue with the guide, stem, and seal. ...
     
  13. Oct 15, 2019 at 10:06 PM #153

    Jack3M

    Jack3M

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    So this problem is due to the guides not being true to the seat face, but just the guide as without the guide in place the valve seals. There is .035" difference in plans from valve stem being less diameter by that over the reamed guide. I did not adhere to that, I have about .002". Got to make a tool that will align all this for reaming the guide.
     

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