LONGBOY'S "BLACK WATER" MODEL GAS ENGINE.

Discussion in 'Photos and Videos' started by Longboy, May 10, 2019.

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  1. May 10, 2019 #1

    Longboy

    Longboy

    Longboy

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    Trying out a sideline as a plumber with my first liquid cooled model. More parts and more area needed on the frame for those parts, Black Water turned out to scale with these external additions. Don't think I will return to L.C. soon..... but gave me a chance to try out another cooling option for my industrial type engines. BLACK WATER starts this week with an abbreviated build log!

    [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited: May 10, 2019
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  2. May 11, 2019 #2

    Longboy

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    Not sure of how much water jacket I would need, the area between the outer wall of cylinder liner and inside wall of the water jacket. That was determined by bringing home some 2in. galvanized water pipe and using my DOM stock for a 1.25in. bore. Gave me about .312in. fluid area around the cylinder. Looks good.
    IMG_2832.JPG
    Aluminum end caps bored for the liner clamp the jacket. Grooved recess with RTV and a pair of socket head #6 screws seals up the perimeter wall.
    IMG_2833.JPG
     
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  3. May 12, 2019 #3

    kadora

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    Will you machine water pump or just simple siphon cooling.
    You wrote // Don't think I will return to L.C. soon....// is this engine your last one?
     
  4. May 12, 2019 #4

    Longboy

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    Not my last engine, just not thrilled with the involvement on water cooling types from bar stock. There is a circulation pump on BLACK WATER.
     
  5. May 13, 2019 at 11:14 PM #5

    Longboy

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    The cylinder drops in.
    IMG_2834 (1).JPG
    The gap in the bottom cap takes the epoxy to lock the cylinder with the cap. two 4-40 socket heads hold the assembly to the deck. On the top side cap, there is no adhesive.
    IMG_2837 (1).JPG
    The cylinder head bolts to the top cap and the o-ring is the water and combustion seal then.
    IMG_2836.JPG
    The socket heads that draw the end caps to the water jacket are not sealed under the cyl. head to provide fill overflow or steam relief. There are no water passageways in the heads.
    IMG_2809.JPG
     
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  6. May 14, 2019 at 10:53 PM #6

    Longboy

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    Cylinders mounted. The deck extended for items to support the cooling.
    IMG_2838.JPG
    Net weight of this engine increasing with the cast iron jackets and long deck.
    IMG_2839 (1).JPG
     
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  7. May 16, 2019 at 6:10 AM #7

    Longboy

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    Going to need a water pump. I made this vane pump using a block of Delrin. It is a mag drive unit. I also bought an electric gear pump as a choice too.
    IMG_2841.JPG
    This tested out pretty good running on the lathe with a water flow loop. The magnets didn't start to slip till after 2500 RPM. Good enough for an engine that idles away. The vane drum is 1 inch dia. and the cavity in the block is 1.25 inch.
    IMG_2842.JPG
    The issue is it's size in scale to BLACK WATER. Even after trimming off the block to a square, I was going to have packaging issues in mounting.
    IMG_2843 (1).JPG
    Save for the next liquid cooled engine I may never build, the exercise was worth doing and can be used as an accessory driven by any engine to pump water to show work.
    IMG_2844.JPG
    The electric gets a spot on BLACK WATER.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2019 at 6:19 AM
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  8. May 17, 2019 at 12:50 AM #8

    Longboy

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    The crankshaft has a 2 bearing support with a dummy web between the rods. That segment is 3 piece, steel rounds bridged with aluminum tube. This was changed out as my crank webs were slipping on the throw pins and at fast idle or just starting a reluctant engine put the flywheel into a wobble.
    IMG_2840.JPG
    That piece was near 12 oz. and the distance between the bearings and the web load on the throw pin too great, being my longest twin cyl engine. BLACK WATER should be a 3 bearing engine. Lets see if I can lighten the load on the throw and get by on 2 bearings. Third bearing always an option..... IMG_3336.JPG
    A couple of rolls of electrical tape.........just kidding. :p A pair of aluminum dummy webs weigh 5 oz. total on the throw pin. The set screws with adhesive hold everything nice now. I took another 3 oz. outta the flywheel and dished the pistons for a lower compression for ease of starting. With the engine running, the throw pin disappears in a blur and it looks like nothing supporting the crank between the con rods then.
     
  9. May 18, 2019 at 6:30 AM #9

    Longboy

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    Center punch a good way to locate an idler gear for the timing set. IMG_2848.JPG
    If I get "slightly" off, the shaft for the idler can be drilled a few thousands eccentric off center and then pivoted on its bolt to achieve equal gear lash, drive to driven.
    IMG_2955.JPG
    The lobes for the cam on BLACK WATER are unique, something I've haven't seen this material used for. Made from half inch dia. Delrin, they are easier than metal to cut & file on the profile. Low heat on the camshaft as well as low spring pressure and no need to lube, I think they will last well on slow RPM gas engines. They make a distinctive "clickety-clack" against the lifters you can hear on startup and running in the video!
     

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