How/what to replace the 'oil button'

[TinkerJohn]

I am looking for ideas to convert from the common ‘oil buttons’ (you know, the ones that don’t oil a thing!) found on the Asian machinery. I’ve attached a picture of what I am trying to replace.

After some searching, I did find a post that mentioned a 10-24 tap would remove them. But, what do I replace them with that works.

Thanks in advance.


---TinkerJohn---

 

[joeby]

How about drive-in oil cups. I have them on one of my lathes, they do the job and keep the chips and grit out of the oil holes. Drawback is the clearance needed to use them.


http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=890&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=891-4786

Kevin

 

[artrans]

I may be wrong and someone please correct me if so. But why replace something that works the best machines made use the spring and ball oil ports and never heard of a lath going bad
because chips got in there. If that is a issue for you put a piece of tape over it when your cutting and remove it when done. That system I believe is older then dirt.

 

[Kermit]

http://www.multifilla.com/images/Product_highlights/micro_injector.gif

I'm actually using a cough syrup syringe. The kind you get at the pharmacy for kids who need medicine but can't "drink" yet. Just a smooth tip with an opening about like a coffee stirring straw(smaller than normal straw). I think pencil lead would fit nicely inside the opening of the syringe.

Put some 3 in 1 oil in mine and pressed it down on the button and then leaned the syringe to one side and tryed it. It worked sort of. Made a big mess too!

Then I realized the spring under these things is not that strong. so I pressed the tip of the syringe into the ball until it was pressed down far enough for the syringe tip to be pressed into the brass ring rather hard. Then you use the hydraulic pressure from the syringe to force the ball down further and inject some oil into the hole. A little oil formed a puddle right on top of the oiler, but this way was much less messy.

I would have spoken up sooner about this but I figured I was the one that was learning here and everyone but me knew how to use the chinese grease zerks.


Tinker, I remember you saying you have the Lathemaster 9x30? Well, I do to so I KNOW this method would work for you. Them damn rough cast holes beneath the zerks are filthy I tell you, Filthy! ;D. I used some small tube brushes to scrub out what I could reach before filling with lube. I will probably have to clean it regularly for awhile, I've noticed black streaks in the oil already and I haven't even started using the lathe! Just what gunk the oil has dissolved, running out under gravity.

Pay a visit to the neighborhood pharmacy and tell the pharmacist your grandkid doesn't seem to be getting any medicine down his throat with that little cup they gave you to use. Let him offer up the medicine syringe. He really does want to help ya know.



Kermit

P.S.

http://www.multifilla.com/Product_highlights.htm
This looks like a really nice hobby supply web site. Lots of stuff, but I know nothing about them. Anyone?

 

[dwentz]

I like the little spring loaded oiling balls. In fact I ordered some spares from littlemachineshop.com to add in a few places on some of my equipment.

They work good, but you need to build an oiler for them. It is an easy thing to make. Get a standard pump style oil can from the hardware store. You need to get one that has a tip that is small enough at the end, and will fit in the hole so that it will push the ball down. Now the problem is that the little ball will block the hole in the end of the oil can, which will not allow the oil out of the can. What you need to do is file or cut with a razor saw a fine slot in the tip of the oiler. This will allow the tip to push the ball down, and the little slots will allow the oil to come out the sides. Do not make the slots too deep, they need to just let the oil in the fittings. (I mention this from experience.)

I keep mobile spindle oil in mine. Just wipe the little oil fitting off to wipe off any dirt on the ball, and give your oiler a pump or two. Makes the job quick and easy.

Dale

 

[joeby]

This falls under the "personal preference" heading I think. I don't particularly care for the ball oilers, although some of my machines still have them, because of the problems I've had with broken springs, dirt loves the little bit of oil left around the ball (never had much luck with getting tape to stick on greasy machine parts), and the lack of a reservoir for oil.

The places I have substituted the oil cups leave enough room to easily use them, they stay clean because of the spring loaded cap, and there are wicks in them to hold some oil. Easy to check too.

Agreed, the ball oilers have been around a long time and they do work; but so have oil cups.

Just my $.02.

Kevin

 

[shred]

I like the little spring loaded oiling balls. In fact I ordered some spares from littlemachineshop.com to add in a few places on some of my equipment.

They work good, but you need to build an oiler for them. It is an easy thing to make. Get a standard pump style oil can from the hardware store. You need to get one that has a tip that is small enough at the end, and will fit in the hole so that it will push the ball down. Now the problem is that the little ball will block the hole in the end of the oil can, which will not allow the oil out of the can. What you need to do is file or cut with a razor saw a fine slot in the tip of the oiler. This will allow the tip to push the ball down, and the little slots will allow the oil to come out the sides. Do not make the slots too deep, they need to just let the oil in the fittings. (I mention this from experience.)

I keep mobile spindle oil in mine. Just wipe the little oil fitting off to wipe off any dirt on the ball, and give your oiler a pump or two. Makes the job quick and easy.

Dale

Hmm.. I use unmodified oil cans with a pointy tip and let the hydraulic pressure of the oil make it's way out. That works on my machines with the ball-ports. I'll have to try the mod if it comes to that. I have two of the cheapy trigger-pull oil cans-- one with spindle oil in it, and the other with way oil. Highly recommended.

What some of the bigger machines use for pressure oiling is Alemite/zerk fittings-- they look and act just like grease fittings but are intended for oil (putting grease in them is a common major no-no). You need a special oil-gun for them (or convert a grease gun), but you can inject oil like mad with one of those. Worth looking at as a replacement if you aren't happy with what the oil button supplies. The zerks do stick out a bit, so my machine with oil fittings also has a few buttons here and there in low-clearance spots.

Kermit; syringes (and needles! ) are available off the shelf at Tractor Supply stores. I stock up whenever I go by one. 20ml syringes are very handy in the shop.

 

[mklotz]

dirt loves the little bit of oil left around the ball (never had much luck with getting tape to stick on greasy machine parts)

Save those annoying refrigerator magnet calendars the realtors are forever sending you. Cut circular pieces from them with a punch or scissors and stick them over anything you want to protect from swarf.

I do this on the SHCSs that hold my compound down so I don't have to clean the swarf out of the sockets before angling the compound. Yes, the ferrous swarf sticks to them. No problem. They're cheap. Just toss them and use new ones.

 

[Loose nut]

To oil a ball oiler you are suppose to use a special oiler that fits over the ball opening with a rubber seal and then you give the "plunger" on the end a hard wack, it seals the end and shoots oil in at the same time. The only problem is that they are impossible to find anymore.

 

[TinkerJohn]

Hey guys….Thanks for all the ideas.

Kermit, I am going to take your advice and check the oil holes themselves. That may very well be what’s up since I don’t think oil is getting where it’s supposed to go.

Also thanks for the lead on the Gitts oil cups; I did not realize Enco stocked them in small quantities.

Great info on the oil ‘gun’ mods and ideas. I’m sure there are enough ideas here to solve my problem

That’s why this forum is so good….folks help out and give good ideas!

---TinkerJohn---

 

[DICKEYBIRD]

You just made my day Dale! ;D I literally ran to the shop and modified my oil can like yours and it works GREAT! So simple but the thought never crossed my mind.

And Marv, your magnet trick fixed the problem with my X-3's Z-axis bevel gear oiler. I guess the spring broke & the ball doesn't pop back into place after I oil it. The magnet trick instantly keeps the chips out.

I love this place! ;D

 

[Mainer]

I've seen some cheap (translation: poorly made) ball oiling points that were pretty bad and didn't work well, at all. If they're of decent quality, they ought to be okay. If one isn't working well, you may just want to replace it with a good one.

They do have the singular advantage of being flush with the surface, and in some places that can be important. Before I replaced any with oil cups, I'd want to decide that the presence of an oil cup sticking up wouldn't be in the way.

 

[macona]

I use the eagle oilers like here on ebay:

I have two of these and they work great with the ball oilers. They can really put some oil under pressure. Thats one advantage over the standard Gits oilers. You can get some pressure in there. Gits oilers rely on gravity.

 

[BillH]

I use an oil gun and shoot the oil in, works fine, although the quality of the ball oilers on my 8x14 are rather poor.

 

[tmuir]

I may be wrong and someone please correct me if so. But why replace something that works

Thats the problem.
On day two on my latheone of the little balls and springs disappeared into my lathe on week 2 another did and I have a third that wants to fail.
I've been putting tape over them but like the magnetic sheet idea as I have about 700mm by 180mm strip of that stuff I brought home from work so the wife could make the kids magnets.

 

[jwsvandr]

I go to the local co-op that sells veterinarian supplies for syringes. They have all sizes of needles also. I have used them for years for oilers. They are cheap and very handy. I find the syringes especially useful for injecting cutting fluid when drilling deep holes on the lathe

 

[Metal Mickey]

I managed to buy a small oil dispenser and after it was emptied the first time I managed to refill it a couple more times before it split. These were sealed with insulation tape before finally giving up the ghost as it were. I have been considering how I can use the front part of the oiler and came upon a syringe I bought to help with paint mixing.

I thought it may be useful to see if the syringe could be adapted as an oiler. When I checked the diameter of the second half of the nozzle it seemed ideal to fit the chrome nozzle part into. I didn’t even have to cut the threads as the nozzle did that itself, sealing on the ‘O’ ring already fitted. The result was a very useful and hopefully more durable solution to oiling the button type oilers found on Far Eastern machines.