How to use a bandsaw?

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steamer said:
Shred.....then that is the proper solution to your shop equation.....everyone's equation is different!
;D ;D

Well, I wouldn't call it "proper", merely 'further-down-the-list-of-things-I-need-to-work-on' than what's at the top ;)

I abuse the little thing (wood, metal, plastic, whatever, mostly all on the same speed) and it still cuts away like mad.
 
yeah I abuse mine a bit too.....I clean it every 4-5 years if it needs it or not.....

Probably should do it more often....mixing aluminum and iron fileings together in the presence of an oxidizer....well...I don't need a hole in the floor.... :big: :big:
 
Zee,
If you get into cutting large section steel, a blade lubricant is helpful. I use Castrol Industrial Stick Wax Lubricant. Nothing magic about it, and I have used other brands also over the years and really could not tell the difference between them. It really makes the blades last longer on steel, and the cut goes faster. Just occasionally press the stick against the sides of the blade while running.

If you eventually end up doing a lot of cutting, brazing your blades up from coil stock can reduce the cost of blades. Even if you don't braze up from stock, it is handy to repair blades that have broken, or to splice in a section if you have a couple that are still sharp but have had a few teeth stripped out.

We had a thread on brazing and welding blades about 6 months ago at:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=305.0

Gail in NM,USA
 
or you could just use a candle stick and paraffin the same way.

The wife loves me using her candles, and it makes the shop smell good ;D


My suggestion after buying the CHEAPEST one available is to go ahead and purchase a 1/2 hp motor along with it. You WILL save money by getting it on sale, but they will get rid of some crappy steel called a blade and a crappy something else they call a motor. The bandsaw itself is solid and seems to be a universally used design by all the importers.

Kermit
 
GailInNM: Thanks. I do have one and will use it.
Kermit: Thanks. I'll probably wait on the motor since HF is close enough to me but I'll take a look at them.
 
Here's another vote for the ubiquitous, seemingly indestructible 4 x 6 bandsaw.

If, for some reason, HF doesn't work out, ENCO has the 5 x 6 on sale for $220.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-6840&PMPXNO=2898792&PARTPG=INLMK3

HF and ENCO discount coupons...

They both seem to send the better coupons when you haven't bought from them for a while.

I signed up twice with them - once using my regular email addy and once with the spam-avoidance addy I use. When I order I use the regular addy so nothing is ever ordered using the dummy addy. It seems to get the better coupons.

 


At the risk of sounding too contrary, my experience disagrees with Steamer and I can state that Starrett are absolutely the worst Bandsaw and Hacksaw blades I have ever used in my life. About as sharp as a brick and last as long as an ice-cream in the Gobi Desert before the teeth go.

I don't have a picture of the bandsaw blade teeth, but I do have one of the hacksaw, but the bandsaw was just the same. You can see from the paint still on the blade that it has had hardly any use.


Starrett_Teeth1.jpg



For hacksaws I use nothing but Eclipse or Sandvik these days.

However, for a 4x6 bandsaw - an essential investment as others have mentioned - you just simply can't beat a Lenox Diemaster 2, which is probably the best blade I have used. It is a bi-metal blade with an M42 HSS tooth edge, cuts beautifully, and lasts forever. I am another firm believe in vari-tooth blades, and I commonly use a 6/10 vari tooth on my 4x6, or occasionally swap it over with a 10/14 vari tooth if I'm doing a bit of contouring, or a run of small stuff. But I don't generally cut any bar below about 5/8" or 15mm with the bandsaw, so the 6/10 stays on there most of the time.
I probably only change the blade about once a year now I reckon.

And it get some hard use too. The 4x6 is a very versatile tool if you're a bit more creative with fixturing the stuff you cut, and it will cut MUCH bigger stuff with a little creativity.

This is a lump of Thyssen Thyroplast 2085 pre-hardened Stainless tooling plate, originally measuring around 450mm x 360mm x 40mm thick, which the 4x6 reduced to much more manageble lumps. Took a while of course, but the same blade stayed on there for another few months even after chopping this lot up.


Tooling_plate_cut.jpg



Peter

 
Thanks Peter.

Thanks Marv. It looks like those tips were well received.
 
Zipped down to HF.
Turns out the 1HP model was on sale but they didn't have any in stock.
The 1/3HP is only available online.
Shred was kind enough to put me onto a 20% coupon.

So next week I go down to pick up the 1HP for 44% off! I'm happy.

Surprised they would take the coupon on a sale item.

Forgot to look at motors.
 
...runit till it dies and then get another....it might last 10 years + like mine ;D

Dave
 
Maybe my motor was built by some newly hired 12 year old, before he had gained a whole weeks worth of experience. ;D <-- that's when they get promoted to building the 1 hp models. :big:


May your cast iron fortune cookie contain better news than mine did,
Kermit
 

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