Flame Eater not working

[DaveRC]

Hi,

I have built Jan Ridders Flame eater with internal valve, I think my mistake was I have built the MK1 version (I did start making this some time back) anyway, I just can't get the thing to run. Everything is running freely and looks OK, only problem was getting the piston and the valve to run smoothly. I think I have over polished the pistons and the bore and the fit I think is now a little loose and probably not holding the gasses very well. But any tighter and it will not move very well, also the build up of rust is amazingly quick, I seem to spend more time pulling the thing apart to clean then I do trying to get it to run.

So anyway, got to the point of giving up.

But I was looking at the photos of the MK2 (waiting for the plans now), I am thinking I can make the new cylinder and graphite pistons and use the rest as is, has anyone done this..?

Also, looks like I need to get some 1" graphite, anyone know of a suppler in the UK that sells this in short lengths..?

Thanks

Dave

 

[lordedmond]

Yep try
http://www.nogginend.com/index_files/GraphiteRound.htm


I Know its a strange name but it is OK I have dealt with him manny times, never let me down he only takes PP but you can checkout as a guest , a full PP acct is not needed



Stuart

 

[fcheslop]

Hi Dave,I got my graphite from noggin end as already mentioned but art shops also sell short lengths a lot cheaper.
I built a version of the redesigned J Ridders engine it runs OK but nothing startling, the piston and valve fits are critical as is making sure theres no binding in the engine

This is my slightly modified version
best wishes Frazer

 

[jonesie]

hi dave i had the same problem with mine,so i remade the valve and cylinder so i only had about .0003 clearence to the cly.also the flame needs to be set just like jan says. i also found that it needed to be warmed up good before i would run.also like jan says in trouble shooting guide on his web site it should free wheel for 15 to 20 seconds so everything needs to fit good.you are right keeping it clean is a pain, but mine now runs pretty good. good luck jonesie

 

[DaveRC]

Thanks for the replys guys, Frazer, that is one very nice looking engine....

Anyway, would you belive it, I just been out in the workshop again, gave it another clean, gave it another spin or two and I was amazed, for the first time it sprang into life..... ;D ok so it only ran for a few seconds, but it was running, first engine I have ever finished and the first sign of life, wow I feel like... woohoo1

I think its a combination of all the trying you can see ware marks on the piston where it's bedding in, so I think this is helping. Going back out there now to strip and polish it all again and see if I can get it running a bit longer, I think the problem is in the valve, this keeps getting stuck.

Still may end up making the other cylinder and piston, but any luck this could be a runner.

Thanks again for your help.

Dave

 

[fcheslop]

Hi Dave,That's great news th_wwp th_wwp :big:
A good friend made the same version as you and also had a bit of a prob with it I think he uses diesel as a lube not sure.
I prefer the P Duclos designs they are great runners and the valve is a lot easier to seal in my humble opinion Iv recently finished Little Blazer and its a flyer :big:
Best wishes Frazer

 

[Blogwitch]

Dave,

This is a double version I built, to the very original design (almost)

The most critical bit is the position of the wick and flame, even 0.020" out, up/down and side to side, and the thing won't run properly. Take note of where mine are. Even gently moving the wick one way or another does have a critical effect, but once set up, it will run almost forever.

Eventually, with a bit of luck, I will be converting this to use two bunsen type gas burners. That should get around the continual cleaning out.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyrWRBoC-2c[/ame]


John

 

[lensman57]

Hi Dave,
I have also built the MKII version of this engine and it has the accolade of being one of the only two of my engines that don't run, my last one one was one of Elmer's more complex ones and it ran straight from the Assembly.
Check the piston for fit as it should definitely have the vaccum "pop" without binding the next one is the timing and fit of the valve piston and then the position and the length of the flame, according to Jan Ridder this is critical.
Having said all this there is no guarantee to run but these look nice and make nice paper weight.

Regards,

Ali Ghazizadeh