Condensation issues

[JimM]

Hi all

Went into my 'shop' last night and noticed that the mill was damp to the touch and on some metal stock I have stored there you could see the beads of condensation.

So I'm now looking for some simple methods of trying to keep things a bit dryer.

The shop is actually a single car garage - about 20' x 10' brick construction with flat roof, entry via the up and over door and it has a single window at the opposite end.

I can't afford to spend too much on upgrading at the moment so what should be the first steps I take to improving things. Was considering

1. Getting a dehumidifier
2. Trying to stop some of the draughts (especially around the up and over door) - although not sure this is good thing or not
3. Some sort of heating - but this would be like burning £££ as the garage is so cold and draughty
4. Insulating the garage - proabably the best option but involves more expense and a lot of aggro

Any advice gratefully accepted

Cheers

Jim

 

[bearcar1]

Greetings Jim, your best solution to your problem is going to be #2, #3, and #4. The dehumidifier will be like a band aid on a heart attack and will merely slow the process down and marginally at best. Sealing the draughts and installing some sort of vapor barrier will go a long way in preventing the ingress of moisture. Plastic sheeting can be used over the brickwork but that could then lead to mold and mildew issues later if not installed properly. The 4'x8' sheets of foam insulation board are relatively inexpensive and could be used to accomplish a type of vapor barrier and insulate the area to some degree. Sealing the spaces around that huge door will be a trick but could also be done with replacement sealing strips available at the local hardware or home center store. Could you remove that overhead door, close off the opening and replace it with a normal entrance door? Or utilize a small-ish space heater to keep the dew point as high as possible while you are not in the shop. (if this last option is considered, be certain that all precautions regarding proximity to combustible materials and adequate electrical wiring is in place for such devices if used) I think that the foam insulation and sealing up the air draughts will be the biggest bang for your money.

Best regards

BC1
Jim

 

[Ed T]

I have wondered how a 100 watt lamp placed inside the mill base would do to help keep the iron warm without heating the whole building too much. If it worked, it could be replaced with a thermostatically controlled resistance heater that would be longer lived than a bulb and would only draw power when the thermostat switched on. I think it might be posible to rig up an inside and an outside thermostat to only turn things on when the temperature differential was conducive to condensation. Alternatively, the humidistat from a dehumidifier could probably be adapted so things are only heated when needed. 100Watts run all the time adds up after a while, but a whole lot cheaper than heating the whole building all the time.

 

[ChooChooMike]

I think you might be pleasantly surprised a home much heat a 100W bulb puts out. Over a few hours, I'd think it's warm the mill base and surrounding enough to keep the humidity down.

Mike

 

[spuddevans]

I think you might be pleasantly surprised a home much heat a 100W bulb puts out. Over a few hours, I'd think it's warm the mill base and surrounding enough to keep the humidity down.

Mike

A little off topic here, but I watched a program on energy a while ago and to demonstrate the how wastful conventional lightbulbs are they build a box about 18" square out of dense foil-lined polystyrene insulation and placed a raw chicken in it, mounted 2 100watt bulbs in it and then put the lid on ( made out of the same insulation as the rest of the box )

In less than 90 mins the chicken was completely cooked through just from the heat coming off the 2 100watt bulbs.

You might find that even a 40watt bulb may do the trick in the mill base.

Tim

 

[Thingibob]

I've often wondered about that argument Tim,

I mean we turn the lights on in the evenings and for longer periods in the winter. Both times the extra heat from the bulb actually comes in useful.

The other argument if that these lower energy bulbs use more energy to make and dispose of than they could ever hope to save in their useful life frame.

LEDs may be another matter though.

TB

 

[d.bick]

Jim
one of the cheapest methods in protecting machines is to cover them with an old blanket. I do also give the machines a spray of WD 40.I found buying it by the gallon the best and you get a free spray bottle.
Dave Bick

 

[kendo]

Hi Jim
An old boy once told me that if you get a couple of old clay plant pots
you know the little ones, Turn them upside down and light a little candle
inside,( or the tea light ones ) they give off a surprising amount of heat;
a really cheap way to heat a room, and they last a good twelve hours.

Never tried it myself, only got his word for it. Tells me he used to do this
in the good old bad old days.

Oh! but the way the candle must be on a saucer or something none
combustible , wouldn't want someones workshop burning down
you guys would never forgive me.

But all the same would like to know if it really works.

KEN

 

[bucketboy]

I think you might be pleasantly surprised a home much heat a 100W bulb puts out. Over a few hours, I'd think it's warm the mill base and surrounding enough to keep the humidity down.

Mike

Go to a pet shop and get a reptile heater and thermostat, they are much more efficient as they don't waste energy turning heat into light

Bb

 

[Tin Falcon]

For what it is worth my college chem professor affectionately referred to light bulbs as "Heat bulbs" they do give off much more heat than light. Al though bucketboy does seem to have a good idea.
Tin

 

[bucketboy]

http://www.hygienesuppliesdirect.com/products/prod147218?tkt=fr

http://www.astra247.com/5183/Heatin...or-Workshop-HeaterWhite/1ft-Length60W/froogle

Bb