I recently acquired a hollow punch set, the kind that allows nesting different size punches in the working end of the handle. Thus, with one operation you can punch out a washer-type gasket, with no worries about centering the smaller punch in the larger punch. For reference, it's a Mayhew 16 piece metric punch set.
However, there were no instructions about how to use it. It also did not give any warnings about maximum thickness, materials that can be punched, or the most effective means of using the punch.
I do my punching on top of a soft wood surface to avoid damaging the cutting edge of the punch. Running a sharpening rod 'round the outside and inside edges of the punch to hone it a bit helped it to penetrate better. Doing that before each gasket made punching quite a bit easier.
For thin enough material, I can just put my weight on it and punch out what I need. However, for thicker material, that becomes harder and harder.
Is using a wooden mallet to strike the handle a safe and effective way to punch slightly heavier material? The handle is chromed and does not appear to be designed to be pounded with a metallic hammer (maybe a lead hammer would be ok). Should the punch be rotated as you bear down on it to help it cut?
I found that for the heavy rubber vibration absorbing mat that I was punching bolt holes in, and also punching out home-made anti-vibration washers, could only be punched by rotating the punch as I bore down with my body weight. This led to significant distortion of the washer shape due to the twisting of the material as the punching proceeded.
What is the most accurate way to use a hollow punch? I want to avoid creating gaskets or washers that are tapered or bell shaped. I also want to avoid producing a work item whose axis is not normal to the top and bottom surfaces either.
Any hints and tips for using a hollow punch will be greatly appreciated!
However, there were no instructions about how to use it. It also did not give any warnings about maximum thickness, materials that can be punched, or the most effective means of using the punch.
I do my punching on top of a soft wood surface to avoid damaging the cutting edge of the punch. Running a sharpening rod 'round the outside and inside edges of the punch to hone it a bit helped it to penetrate better. Doing that before each gasket made punching quite a bit easier.
For thin enough material, I can just put my weight on it and punch out what I need. However, for thicker material, that becomes harder and harder.
Is using a wooden mallet to strike the handle a safe and effective way to punch slightly heavier material? The handle is chromed and does not appear to be designed to be pounded with a metallic hammer (maybe a lead hammer would be ok). Should the punch be rotated as you bear down on it to help it cut?
I found that for the heavy rubber vibration absorbing mat that I was punching bolt holes in, and also punching out home-made anti-vibration washers, could only be punched by rotating the punch as I bore down with my body weight. This led to significant distortion of the washer shape due to the twisting of the material as the punching proceeded.
What is the most accurate way to use a hollow punch? I want to avoid creating gaskets or washers that are tapered or bell shaped. I also want to avoid producing a work item whose axis is not normal to the top and bottom surfaces either.
Any hints and tips for using a hollow punch will be greatly appreciated!