how do you keep the polished engines shiny and oxidation-free?
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After the final polish, I spray with a household general purpose polish (Mr Sheen), it keeps ali and brass looking good for ages.
I did some trials a while back on some engine turned brass plate. The spray used to seal wax rub on letters (Letraset) has worked out the best. A superfine coat has kept the surface like it was done yesterday, it must be a couple of years now since it was done.
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I did some trials a while back on some engine turned brass plate. The spray used to seal wax rub on letters (Letraset) has worked out the best. A superfine coat has kept the surface like it was done yesterday, it must be a couple of years now since it was done.
Blogs
Hi,
shellac(k) works well for large brass surfaces.
Example: (Unfinished) LTD Stirling test run (the engine sits on top of a container with warm water; shame on me: I do not have any pictures of the model after finishing):
Regards,
Fred
shellac(k) works well for large brass surfaces.
Example: (Unfinished) LTD Stirling test run (the engine sits on top of a container with warm water; shame on me: I do not have any pictures of the model after finishing):
Regards,
Fred
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I use Brasso polish on mine and then try not to touch them any more than I have to. I don't like putting any type of clear coating over the brass because if it starts to tarnish the least little bit you have to strip it all down and start over. I had a friend that built miniatures mainly out of brass. They sat in a display case and eventually would tarnish. He got tired of polishing them so he has them brass plated, like hinges and door knobs. I don't know that I would go that far but it's a thought. My worst engine is the Mary beam engine. It basically has to be disassembled to to polish everything. Usually with a good cleanup it will last about a year.
gbritnell
gbritnell
GB
How many gorges engine do you have? I think we need a portfolio of pics and why aren't you in the Craftsmanship Museum. Do you need a person to nominate you? I'll do that in an instant and second it too. Sorry ttrikalin for steping on this but......
Tony
How many gorges engine do you have? I think we need a portfolio of pics and why aren't you in the Craftsmanship Museum. Do you need a person to nominate you? I'll do that in an instant and second it too. Sorry ttrikalin for steping on this but......
Tony
Cedge
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I'm in the GBritnell school of engine housekeeping. I've tried the lacquer and shellac methods but found the both dull the finish and make things more difficult in the long run. If the least bit of tarnish is trapped beneath the finish, or a small air opening develops, the tarnish will rapidly spread under the protective layer, requiring the finish to be stripped before it can be cleaned.
I've been using a metal polish called "MAAS" for several year now because it provides an excellent shine while leaving a microscopic polymer coating on the metal that lasts for several months if the engines are simply on display. It doesn't give much protection if you are constantly handling the engine. It is much more gentle than Brasso and doesn't etch the metal if left on too long. In fact, it has apparently replaced Brasso as the preferred polish for the US Navy for its shipboard bright work.
Every so often I pull an engine off the shelf and take it to task. It's just become part of owning and caring for them.
Tony.... let me know if you need a second for your nomination motion. I'd love to see a group photo of GB's toys myself.
Steve
I've been using a metal polish called "MAAS" for several year now because it provides an excellent shine while leaving a microscopic polymer coating on the metal that lasts for several months if the engines are simply on display. It doesn't give much protection if you are constantly handling the engine. It is much more gentle than Brasso and doesn't etch the metal if left on too long. In fact, it has apparently replaced Brasso as the preferred polish for the US Navy for its shipboard bright work.
Every so often I pull an engine off the shelf and take it to task. It's just become part of owning and caring for them.
Tony.... let me know if you need a second for your nomination motion. I'd love to see a group photo of GB's toys myself.
Steve
Has anybody tried Renaissance Wax? I'm a gun collector and I use it on my collectible firearms.
Recommended by the British Museum for preserving most anything. It is a micro-crystaline wax that doesn't pick up fingerprints. It is a little pricey, but very little goes a long way.
Recommended by the British Museum for preserving most anything. It is a micro-crystaline wax that doesn't pick up fingerprints. It is a little pricey, but very little goes a long way.
Truth be that there is no complete way of doing so.... the clear coat is only as good as it survives and then you have REAL trouble repairing it... as rake says allow it to be indicative of its age OR be prepared to maintain it with asome form of polish.....
Part of the fun (and why my stuff ISNT being completely polished...)... doh...
You cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear..... (whatever THAT means....)
Part of the fun (and why my stuff ISNT being completely polished...)... doh...
You cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear..... (whatever THAT means....)
JMI
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rake60 said:
I agree
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I don't usually polish parts to a high luster since the glare bothers my eyes. Most of the lathe turned parts are left as is. Milled or fly cut (flat areas) of parts are finished with a one direction sanded finish.
To prevent tarnish or "patina" on brass and aluminum I apply an automotive "poly" type surface sealant that bonds with the metal. These are sometimes called "once a year" car polishes that are not the traditional temporary car wax.
I like it, and so far its holding up well. Without the constant exposure to the outside elements it should last for a long, long, time.
If a surface is polished up with say Fliz, Maas, Mothers, Semichrome, etc, then finishing with a "poly" type sealant would be a good way to protect the surface from tarnish.
I found that its easier to apply the sealer to individual parts prior to final assembly.
-MB
To prevent tarnish or "patina" on brass and aluminum I apply an automotive "poly" type surface sealant that bonds with the metal. These are sometimes called "once a year" car polishes that are not the traditional temporary car wax.
I like it, and so far its holding up well. Without the constant exposure to the outside elements it should last for a long, long, time.
If a surface is polished up with say Fliz, Maas, Mothers, Semichrome, etc, then finishing with a "poly" type sealant would be a good way to protect the surface from tarnish.
I found that its easier to apply the sealer to individual parts prior to final assembly.
-MB
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