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you are correct, however..... Like I said in a previous post, there's no need to do that... Just by pass the controller altogether by grounding the motor's neg terminal.... Horses and water springs to mind.........Ignore my experience and knowledge if you want...

Maybe I ought to butt out of this conversation........?

Zipsnipe, The output stage is either open collector transistor or open drain if its a mosfet...either way, the motor will be connected: Motor positive to the main supply rail positive and the motor neg to the collector/drain... Easiset way to make the motor spin faster on return to start...

Mosfets are voltage driven devices not current like a transistor that has Hfe... Like I said before, if the current is limted to 5 amps as the seller claims, then there must be a way in which it does this via a sensing network...Else if the mosfet is driven from the 555 then there isnt really...

After a long absence since the board changes some while back, I've finally managed to get through the door....... So Hi to everyone that knows me from before and Hi to all that dont...;)

ZS, Those two devices you list, one is a mosfet ( first one) the other device is just a plain old 12 v regulator.. If the speed controller is rated for 5 amps then changing the mosfet device isnt going to help, the speedo is probably designed for 5 amps and is done with selective...

You mean like it is?... (tongue)

It's an induction motor with a start and run capacitor so it doesnt have brushes.... You could try stripping the motor and checking the centrifugal switch that switches out the start cap... I'd be surprised if both caps have failed at the same time but you never know.... Check the switch and...

I have two IMO iDrive variable speed control units for sale. These are second hand units that are fully functional and in excellent cosmetic condition. They are ideally suited for converting your lathe or mill and has a 1hp rating. It takes standard ac 240v mains and outputs 3 phase 220v...

Arnak, Try Joe at Maccmodels.co.uk He does 3 in steel diameters by the inch via mail order. Service is pretty good.. Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied customer

Nice job Bogs, well described... Might 'ave a go at doing my rt the same way as I have the same stepper motor.. Thanks for the pictures/words..

Slightly off topic- George, sory to hear you lost a friend.... Yes it is a T6, it belongs to the Warbirds museum at Kissimee Fla. I went up in it as a treat for myself for my 50th birthday, Sean the instructor is a great guy who also flies at Reno with a self build.... Off to cut some pink...

George, Try your local r/c model shop for foam friendly cyano... Nice job btw.... :) Might have a go at one myself..I have a nice slab of pink foam in the garage that would do just fine for the rotor.

What he said.....The cheaper power supplies have a poor duty cycle usually less than 50%... As they say...Go large for a few dollars more..

Wow, I'm impressed... :bow: :bow: How do I make one? I need one like now so I can impress the guys at work ;D ;D Nice job Ken.. ;)

Nice idea....Hope your shop doesnt catch fire...... ;)

Dinkum, It would pay you to get the tank inspected and tested (hydraulicly)...If it has a relief valve( and I'd be surprised if it didnt..) have that re certified too...

The cylinder and the piston skirt should not be polished but should be smooth..helps retain the lube oil...

I cant find it.....:( Do you have a link to it please?

I second the choice for a Myford subject to wear........ I have a Chester 9*20 while it is a good lathe all round, for resale value the Myford is probably a better choice.......