Recent content by Jasonb

Funny enough I drew an alternative liner a couple of days ago for Timo and put a 1mm x 1mm chamfer on that as it just looked right to me and is the sort of size I would have done if designing myself as it makes it easy to get the piston with it's rings into the bore. What do you know that just...

Timo, see my comments about the conrod hitting the liner and my suggested fix https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/upshurs-opposed-twin-engine.36037/post-410429 9mm at the bottom and 6mm at the top would also work

It seems Andrew Whale wa susing teh MEB drawings so less likely to be a difference between the ones from Mrs Upshur and the ones from MEB so I drew a few parts to take a look. Steamchick this is what can be done with CAD. I should say there are a couple of variables on the drawing as the width...

That may explain why I can see differences as I am looking at the plans that were in Model Engine Builder. I have marked the sizes they give for the big end which are clearly different to yours and they also have the screw holes in the middle not breaking out the side. With your conrod having...

Almost, 450mm long with near 11" flywheel. All engines have the basic sizes in the last photo or on the product data sheet

Brian's rods don't look quite the same as the original designer drew them so it was probably OK on the original. Rods should not be offset from ctr line of their respective cylinder Cad makes it very easy to check as you can rotate the virtual crankshaft and see how all the parts move

The latest issue of MiM dropped on the mat today and I thought I would just take a look at the website of one of the small adverts in the mag for www.steamofsteel.de and found that they are now producing casting sets for the many steam engine models that I have seen over the years originally...

There is an io group for Emco lathes which is worth joining, although it says V10 in the name it does cover the other machines. I used to have the Emcomat 8.6 which is very similar to the 7 https://groups.io/g/emcoV10lathe

Just be aware that the solder you say you have got is not 4% silver / 96% Tin as spec'd on the drawings so may affect the joint strength. The 4/96 is a high tensile solder often used for HVAC as a replacement for silver braze. Oatey don't give strengths for what you have but I would think it...

Tinning is quite a common way to solder parts together, I was first shown how to do it at school. Basically it is the application of a thin layer of solder to both parts so that you can see they are fully coated before assembly. It does need to be thin, just enough to put a film on the surfaces...

Really? From the parts I have made from Delrin I would not have thought there was a problem with distortion due to being weak or flexible. Given the overall size and wall thickness there should be plenty of strength there to resist abuse let alone normal use.. Have a read about Delrin The...

Brian, can you enlighten us as to why the adaptor is needed? I can't see it serves any special purpose and just making the rotor hub a bit longer so it runs against the crankcase would fill the gap if it were not fitted.

Have a look at drawing 13 if you are using the MEB plans. "Cam Shaft Layout" 102deg

It is one of E T Westbury's designs. 30cc 2-stroke tether boat engine. Picture above looks like it may be a water coole done rather than the usual air cooled

CAMshaft Bush As I said not keen on the crankshaft running in the steel endplate so if it were me making it I would add some bronze flanged bushes. I've not done the full assembly check but if the flange were 20thou or 0.5mm thick and placed on the INSIDE of the crankcase that would make sure...