Recent content by Gearsguy

Finished this in October 2011. Made from my own patterns and plans. Build time was about 6 months on and off. Flywheels are cast iron and were done at a regular foundry. The rest are aluminum and were done in my own backyard foundry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpdkeR1j-6c

When I first started making hit-miss engines, about 15 years ago, I got this schematic from another model engineer. I do not know who drew it originally but it looks a lot like the one on page 168 of Ignition Coils and Magnetos In Miniature by Bob Shores. He states he got it from Bruce Satra...

Gary, I think you will like this answer. I use paper clips for points. That is one of the great things about the ignition circuit I use. It doesn't need a condenser nor does it need regular points. This is because all you are doing is grounding the base connection of the transistor which turns...

For several years I was using coils from weed eaters and chainsaws for my hit and miss engines. As near as I can tell they were just coils with no embedded electronics. They worked great. Later I was led to believe that new technology coils had additional electronics embedded in them and would...

Billzillz, That is good info. I was not aware that some contained an igniter. Can you tell us how to identify the different types? What does the igniter do?

Looking for a good source for coils for your model engines? Here is what I have recently started using. They are cheap, easy to make and extremely plentiful. Millions are just waiting for you in your local junkyards. They are the COP ignition systems used on all modern cars since the late...

Here are some pictures of my latest kiln which was constructed using a chimney flue liner. The cost was quite reasonable and it was easy to make. I have fired it about 10 times and it works very well. I believe this design will last a very long time but if I do have to replace something I can do...

Orjan, Just made one using a chimney liner like you suggest. Put the liner in a small steel barrell, someone said it was called a quarter barrel. Looks to be about 30 gallons. Firebricks on the bottom and filled around the liner with perlite. Works just fine. If the liner wears out it will only...

I picked up a GADE kit at the GEARS show three years ago. Finally got around to building it last year. This is a very nice kit. All the castings were very good . The brass castings were excellent. It is a good running engine too. My only problem was that the plans are a little bit odd and...

I get my gears from our local bearing supply companies. They all have access to Boston Gear and also other gear manufacturers. Sometimes their supply from Boston Gear is backlogged but they can get the same gears from another company. If they don't have the gears in stock they usually can get it...

Jack, One other note. You mentioned you had been told it requires a lot of electricity to do Alu. Not so. All my melting is done using propane. Same stuff you use to BBQ. Fairly cheap and readily available. I get about 7-8 melts from a 10 gallon bottle of propane. Even commercial foundries here...

Jack, I agree with Tel, avoid cans and small bits and pieces as they produce a lot of slag. I use the thickest hunks of alu I can get. Never, never use the chips from turning or milling. Pure slag. Pistons work well as does hunks of flat and bar stock. I got fortunate a few years ago and picked...

The castings are from scrap aluminum. The flywheels are quite adequate. If you look close you will see they are quite thick and have more than enough mass to run nicely. They are about 7" diameter and with only a 1" bore and only moderate compression I have no problems getting the engines...

Don, Go to www.oregongears.org and take a look at the Gallery. Many pictures of each years show. Also look at the links section and you will find more pictures posted by Carl Carlsen and the Flordia Model Engineers. Sorry this is so late but I just came accross your post.

All Here are some pictures of some of my casting and finished models. So far I have had very good results with my castings. Not as good as a commercial foundry but very usable. Occasionally I lose one and have to remelt but most of the time they work. I use Petrobond sand rather than...