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I'm another OnShape user. Still more complex things it CAN do that I can't do at this point. But I can do most everything I need to do with it to get to the point of having a visual model and making 2D drawings. I looked at FreeCad for a while but it seemed more complex to figure out. At...

I once worked for an impact trauma research lab. I was milling a mount to hold 9 accelerometers to be able to track multiaxis and angular accelerations. It was with magnesium to keep the mass down. Chips had gotten all over the work so I bent over and blew to clear them off the workpiece. One...

I didn't intend to start a fight. As someone long ago said, there are many ways to skin a cat. Whatever works for you is the right way; for you. My question was not about the techniques really (I own a copy of the Connolly book that many of you have referenced). My point was simply that I...

Bad timing on my part. I asked the questions then left for vacation not thinking about no internet; except by phone and this much typing on a phone is tedious at best. Judging by responses, I'm thinking my blueing (Dykem Hi Spot) is OK, though maybe not the best choice. It might also be, as...

Actually, I don't think that is the smallest Kurt vise. At IMTS in Chicago last fall I saw some pretty small ones at the Kurt booth.

So, does Hi-Spot have a shelf life? I once had some layout dye that got so old it didn't work... I was thinking I would try to improve my imported mill vise and was trying to use some Hi-Spot and found that it was almost impossible to see any blue on the part after sliding on the surface...

My understanding (and I don't remember the reason) is that welding straight copper is a no-no for steam boilers/pressure vessels. A guy in Finland has done a copper alloy boiler with TIG (GTAW) successfully. If memory serves it was nickel copper.

Exhaust noise much reduced, though as you point out in the video it leaves the mechanical noise more prominent. Nice work!

Lots of websites and some Youtube videos. I've done this but don't remember the math but should be easily found. Main things is doing it between centers and not trying to use the chuck (fairly obvious hopefully). Otherwise it is just geometry. Hardest part is measuring the offset...

Must be either off to college now or he discovered girls...

Did pull the belt and spin the motor (bearings feel fine) and the gearbox/blade (turns freely and easily). Running the motor without the rest attached still heats the motor. Called the campus physical plant people and the electrician took it to the motor rebuilder today. I'll let them worry...

Centrifugal switch makes all the proper sounds at least so it seems like it is working. Capacitor is of course a tougher question. I have a meter that reads capacitance if it will work on that; not sure about cap. range of the meter; it's at home, I'm at work. Motor seems like it is sealed...

I don't see an electric motor section so since the motor is on a tool I put it here. Maybe a moderator can bump it if needed? Any electrical mavens on here? I have 25 or more year old Wilton "Kalamazoo" style band saw which has served us well for years. Recently I noticed the motor...

I also disdain running out to buy the latest and greatest. I keep old stuff going as long as I can get parts or make parts or figure out how to fix it. But at some point it seems like the law of diminishing returns hits and it is time. The money and work spent to keep the old ACAD going on...

since I came from 1:1 scale hit and miss engines. Most if not all of the ones I'm familiar with did run the other way. Obviously doesn't matter I suppose though there may have been logical reasons at one time. Thrust angle on con rod when firing maybe to reduce forces on main bearing caps...

I have used guitar springs before but they weren't stainless steel and I wasn't sure if one could find them. I ordered .029 from McMaster-Carr. Should be able to back off the adjustment on the safety valve to compensate assuming I don't run out of thread. PM Research has balls and I can...

The suppliers I've used in the past for a couple of items for my A3 steam loco have both gone out of business due to age/health of the owners. Does anyone have a good source for Stainless Steel balls for pumps and check valves and the like. Also, to make springs I need some Cold Drawn...

I would like a drawing of these units if someone is able and willing. Not sure whose it is and what copyright issues if any might be involved. Paul

Yes, of course; Hindsight is an exact science.:p

Should be able to move the section view off center to near edge of con rod? Seems like most CADs will let you take a section wherever you want? (Not that I have a ton of 3D CAD experience and none at all with Solidworks; if that's what you're using.) Paul