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Yeah, I would leave the roof off. If it's got sides and a roof, the only way for the heat to get out is right where you are trying to work.... Andrew

I have a set of MT3 collets for my mini-mill as well as a ER-25 chuck. I'm missing a couple of ER collets and occasionally need the head room, as you mention. I find that I really have to torque the collets down quite a bit to avoid the end mills pulling out, whereas the collet chuck and drill...

I was confused since the OP talked about the cross-slide and I didn't understand the description, but I see by the pics it is the carriage gibs we are discussing....or have I stumbled upon another geographical variation of machine part names?? Andrew

Welcome from another Manitoban...I am on 16 Hwy West of Minnedosa. Where are you? Andrew

Canadian Tire - wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, etc. - hand tools, some power tools - lifetime warranty Princess Auto - chinese stuff, also has a surplus area TSC - chinese stuff EBay - 99% is auctions. Buy at the last 10 seconds. Get most stuff for under $5 depending what it is. Usually...

Since spotting drills are essentially regular drills with a very short fluted section, I've often made spotting drills by resharpening broken drill bits. It may take some work, especially for larger sizes, but for those of us in a home shop environment, time is usually pretty cheap! :big: Andrew

Also, remember this is the swing over the bed being discussed here. You cannot turn a 6" diameter x 18" long piece on a 6"x18" lathe...the workpiece will not clear the carriage/cross-slide. Swing over the cross-slide is likely around 3"...I don't have the lathe in question, so am making a...

You mention 0.001" run-out, but you are measuring on the circumference of the chuck. It's nice that the chuck body is so close, but shouldn't you be measuring on a piece of stock held in the jaws??? Andrew

Yup, that's the one. It usually goes on sale here a couple of times a year. $999 regular. I think the sale price was $749? Maybe $799? At that price it also came with an MT3 -> ER25 collet chuck and collets. Also MT3 -> JT?? arbor and JT?? -> 0-5/8" drill chuck. The collet chuck was a nice...

I used a piece of kitchen counter from someone's renos. Easy to grab if you have friends in the contracting business. I tried asking a cabinet-maker once to save counters for me...he said the kitchen is usually gutted by the time he gets there ;) As long as the finish isn't wore right through...

Definitely saw and face off when possible. It's easier. However, there are times when you need to part off. I use the same type of blade you refer to (1/16" wide x 1/2" tall from LMS). I use LOTS of cutting fluid. Maybe oil, WD40, <insert favorite blend here> - depends what is being parted...

I take an even easier approach...I always start on "1"...all the time, all threads. Sure, it takes longer waiting for the dial to spin around, but I'm not doing production here...... Andrew

Sorry, no HF up here in The North...Princess Auto is our version...I picked it up a few years ago (3 maybe?) No regrets on the purchase...I just have to remember not to over-tighten that MT3 taper...it can be a pig to undo... Andrew

It is a HUGE improvement over the stock lathe. I don't use it too much since getting my 20"x48" WWII-era McDougall, but it is still handy for the odd job. I'm thinking of giving it a make-over to tighten everything up, install tapered gibs, re-do the tailstock (something is binding there -...

I was just going to mention this....When shopping for my mini-mill, it was advertised as R8. I figured I'd just buy an R8 collet set (and other associated tooling). Briefly considered saving on the tooling and going with MT3 so I could use the tooling from my mini-lathe, but most of what I read...

Yes, I'd check a plumbing supply place...note the words PLUMBING SUPPLY...not your local Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc...They likely won't have any this big and if they do have 3", it won't be thick enough...go find out who supplies the local plumbers, contractors, construction companies...

Wow, a lot of posts here since I was on... Yes, I ordered my 5" 3-jaw, 4-jaw and backplate from LMS. I can't remember how much more/less the 5" will turn over the 4". I figured that going up to 4" wasn't a big jump, so why not go to the 5"? I will warn you...when the 5" arrives and you see it...

FYI..... For my minilathe, I had the 3" 3-jaw that it came with and then ordered a 3" independent 4-jaw. I did come across a few projects where they weren't big enough, so also have the 5" versions. (3-jaw and independent 4-jaw.) I decided to skip the 4" size, and haven't regretted it yet...

The last ones I bought here in Canada can be re-filled. (Spring 2010) Squeeze the sides of the screw-on lid/cap and the it deforms enough to skip over the little wedges on the bottle pictured above. Maybe this is a new version??? Andrew

I have a 3" screwless, exactly like the picture above, from LMS. I made the clamps to hold it down, similar to LMS plans on the website. I highly recommend a screwless vise. Works great, never had any trouble. As mentioned though, watch the angle of the hold-down bolt. Andrew