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nice to see one of these "sparkie" engine running... its good to run with lot of oil in the petrol, up to 25%. what kind of ignition you have, electronic module or HT coil and contact breaker as in the plan ?

Is this gizmo strong enough to meet your needs? https://www.stirlingkit.com/collections/engine-tools/products/large-torque-electric-drill-starter-usb-charging-portable-tool-for-musa-retrol-engine-models

Always a great pleasure to see a well thought-out personal design taking shape, thanks to share the build !

great ! congratulations, a nice and running well engine ! the engine responds pretty well to the carb setting, vrooom vroom

thanks for the comments, much appreciated! Jos: yes, 1.3 cm3 is correct, (11.5 mm and 12.5 mm for the actual bore and stroke)... A large part of the engine block is the cooling water hopper, which makes my little engine may look bigger, and tricky to seat in the small loco !

hi Gail, thanks for the appreciation, so welcome coming from you... I'm pretty well aware of your work on your tiny powered locomotives! i've seen all the videos and read avidely all you post on it...your "Baldwin" are awesome locos. 2 years ago, I started this build after collecting lot of...

my little loco in gauge 1 (1/32) is not powered by a true diesel engine I confess, but a tiny 4 stroke petrol engine of 1.3 cm3 from my own workshop, with spark ignition and fuelled with plain gasoline from the pump. I just finished an electronic ignition module small enough to rest under the...

the problem with reed switches lays not only in the frequency (which may be quite high enough) but in the position of the sensor in front of the magnet with could be very critical : in my own tests...you may have 0 to 2 sparks per rotation according to their orientation... moreover, in one my...

with Cura, it is simple to change the size of the print, and I print my pla models at 102 % to have cast parts in aluminium dead size... otherwise something around 0.5mm for a 20mm dia is missing on the cast part.

a lot of plans for small gauge model locos do exist... you can start your own loco today, you will not be alone, amongst many active modellers. no living in the US, I'm not aware of the small gauge live steam get together, which are certainly a good way to start. I enjoy the steamup meeting as...

the meths has to be vaporized to combine with oxygen and burn, this is the normal process of combustion... and if the whole meths tank gets very hot, it is dangerous and destructive as the loco is surrounded by flames! it happens easily with tin plates locos...

Its a pity because you did a lovely loco... with this boiler, it seems to me that the venting is too restricted for a good combustion of the meths... I think that after building up pressure with an auxiliary draught with an electric fan, the blower must remain open, have a look at the burner...

could you give us some details on the burner and the firebox... are they as per the LBSC's blue prints ? I did a similar loco years ago, very modified, with a internally fired boiler, which runs very well.

I too love to use my Ender each time I have to make a little gizmo...mainly because it is so easy to reprint a refined version ! there is a pair of beautiful yellow helical gear in a picture above (# 25, Greentwin) I wonder if it is possible to model it in 3D with freecad too ? I'm just...

the electronics inside these little ignition modules is very close to the circuit of some electronic gas lighter, and as shown by Jan Ridders on his site, the conversion into a usable ignition is easy... http://www.ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_blokker_vonkcircuit/blokker_crcuit_frameset.htm and...

I did little ignition modules according to the site of Jan Ridders with modified electronic gas lighter, and they worked a treat, with reed switch or home made switch that imitates conventional contact breaker. and I'm not alone, see for instance "mylittlediesel" with several videos on this...

it is this kind of reed contact https://fr.farnell.com/hamlin/59140-1-t-02-f/sensor-magnetic-spst/dp/1839038 it do not depends on the orientation of the magnetic pole to be activated, as is the Hall sensor, but the position of the magnet can be critical for a precise triggering...and a ferrous...

Yes, the 2 wires "sensor" is just a plain reed switch...you can easily find the same at RSpare. but I doubt that it is the failed component, alas, the cooked one is probably embedded in the putty...

great result, a good looking engine with very realistic low speed and efficient regulation, congratulations !

nice steam launch, Steamchick ! if the disks on the bobbin were a little bit larger and the central wheel with the o ring made movable in the front-rear direction to change the radius rolling on the disk, the speed could be changed... but it is obviously annoying to modify a perfectly...