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no worry, in my previous post I did state I got everything in spec and the ill symptoms are gone. just tracking down another cylinder to confirm its boring true. and it should..... I hope.

thank you Dalee, and hopper. I went with the loose gib idea and broke out the measuring tools, I had 1.5 thou of play. seemed loose to me and found the manual online. it calls for .0002 back/forth play for total of .0004. so I was very loose. after fiddling with it for awhile I got it in...

I cannot remember in terms of adjustment how to fix this below symptom. I have a full size engine boring bar, kwikway. when I engage auto feed the machine will bore into the cylinder smoothly, but as it gets further down the cylinder the column will drop with a thud and leave a small ridge in...

thank you, just stumbled on that shortly after posting. I might have to, but I really prefer a hard copy I can take around with me. I love computers but when it comes to material I refer to you can't beat paper :)

looking for this handbook. Sunnen’s Complete Cylinder Head and Engine Rebuilding Handbook if anyone has one, or knows some one that would part with it reasonably please let me know by sending a message or such.

I shouldn't have to do any turning, just milling flats and maybe a woodruff cutter for the keyway (if I feel like an adventure) if not everything gets flats for grub screws like the factory did (even on the pulleys that have keyways! guess that's all that is needed) hopefully more will...

Hi guys the plastic suppliers here also recommended delrin instead. 2 feet of 2.5 diameter for $60 best I could find, didn't think this stuff was that expensive. I have considered wood but I think the plastics will hold up better, or so I hope.

hoping to start tackling this on the weekend, how difficult is it to machine 4140, 1045 or drill rod ? if I follow the same original design it just uses the grub screws so as cogsy mentioned I will mill flats, for all drive wheels and pulleys. anyone tell me the characteristics of the...

what if I were to scrap the UHMW idea, is there a better material that's easier to work with? something more ideal for a press fit and taking a adhesive if needed?

thank you, so I would be pressing in a steel sleeve, so I don't have to worry about distortion or re reaming, the steel sleeve slides onto the 3/4 bar drive shaft, the UHMW acts like the tread to spin the tumbler. UHMW seems like finicky stuff! would you recommend another material? I just...

that is all readily accessible here, I have more metal suppliers then I can count in my neck of the woods. how are those for machining? Id likely use my Seig X2 mill to mill flats and maybe keyways (stock never had keyways just grub screw on flats) if I went with bearings does that change...

thanks! do you know if they make the bearings without a lock collar? that is what is making it difficult to fit. the original bushed style has no collars. I can use 3/4 without turning the ends so not to worried about that. more concerned at this point the best metal selection that will allow...

Hi another question for my project. fixing up a old tumbler, it uses 2 drive shafts to rotate the tumbler drums. I am re making the wheels and posted about that, I currently am trying to select material for the drive shafts and have a few options I can use the stock set up, using...

I recently purchased an older commercial dual barrel tumbler. nice old school made 3/4 driven shafts, bronze pillow bearings. I pulled it apart as the driven wheels are all crumbling and shattering, expected with its age. looks like the factory might have casted/injected these. I plan on...

thank you! I will be running a high volume of parts not to worried about optimizing but I was having difficulties with surface finish and as you stated while listening it didn't quite sound right I was playing around but didn't make great progress, I see I can change my setup drastically with...

I am machining some brass on the CNC taig mill. still trying to figure out the optimal spindle speed, depth of cut and ipm feed and wondering if I can get some pointers. the item machined is around .485 diameter I am facing it, first few passes are intermitted cut then the last is a full...

John, yes I originally wanted one of those! but seems like I can get a full-size bandsaw for the same price or cheaper used. lots of the metal suppliers around here have a few little ones for walk in orders and they work fast!

good ideas! I can work with them temporarily while I search for a metal bandsaw I think I then can retire the old hacksaw and become more productive :) thanks for the help!

I am working with my cnc taig mill, running taigs 140t slitting saw on brass tube. likely will be cutting hundreds of these parts and I am concerned about the very fine chips or dust and its potential impact on my machine. the taig does have a rubber apron for the front and rear screw and I...

:thumbup: amazing