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When I was involved with this sort of thing, 40 odd years ago, the tube was a silicon rubber. Can't say if it lasted long term, heart operations only lasted a few hours all being well, then everything got junked. Ned

Hi Guys, M3.5 is not so unusual, it is I believe, used quite a lot in mains electrical outlets here in the good(?) old UK, but don't use any of them to hold inserts as they are brass. I bought some M3.5 Torx insert screws from Jenny at JB Cutting for £1.50 each if memory serves. Most UK...

Hi Simon, When you have difficulties tapping, provided your tap isn't as blunt as a boxing glove, try opening the hole slightly. It will reduce the %engagement slightly but you will be surprized what you can get away with. You don't have to follow slavishly the books on tapping sizes. Ned

Hi Omnimill, Best to buy it when you see it, if you go back later some other dude will have bought it. Let's hope it is dry, unlike the one a couple of years ago, I'm taking gum boots just in case. Bed

There is another way, that is centuries old, first true up a piece of round stock of the same diameter and then replace with your square, remembering to loosen and tighten the same two jaws. It can be quite accurate if you tighten the jaws to the same torque, to achieve this I once made a torque...

Hi Guys, I don't see any comments that "knock" the chap. Personally, I applaud anyone who can make money in an industrial situation, particularly if they are not based in the PRC! I do, though, think it is perhaps a little misleading to claim something is "new" when the idea has been about for...

Hi Bogs, As you say nothing new, Ifanger have been selling them for years, their blurb says it is meant for "less rigid machines"! An euphemism perhaps? Ned Edit, PS just watched the video, not really impressed, surely we can all do that already. :big:

Hi Marv, Indeed, but clearly someone missed your point (pun intended) ;D Ned

Surely the conical point/shaft concentricity is irrelevant, you only need to get the very point to run true. It is after all only the very tip that you use for location, not the shaft. ned

Hi Arnak, Had you thought to look in your local Yellow Pages? Look for steel stockholders and you might be surprised to find one nearby and save postage fees. Just because you are a "Model Engineer" it does not mean that you have to use "model engineer" suppliers and pay over the odds for your...

Hi Picclock, Just a thought but what are you making your threading tool from? I am assuming you are using HSS, if so are you using one with too much Cobalt? I seem to remember reading somewhere, possibly Gadgetbuilder's site, that the more Cobalt you have the more brittle the steel becomes. We...

As a general idea, it is best to always part off as close to the chuck as you can get and not to use support. but there are occasions when support will help. There is no problem using tail stock for support, but best to relieve pressure as the cut nears completion. If there is too much pressure...

Hi Gray, As the friend in London, I too would like to welcome you. I hope joining more forums (fora?) will not keep you away from the important work in the workshop. :) Ned

Hi Arnak, Two things to suggest; 1/ are you sure the die is sitting squarely in the holder? I often tap the die with a rubber hammer to make sure it is sitting firmly in place. Don't assume that the screws will locate the die correctly. 2/ If the die is sitting correctly, try putting the die in...

Ah yes Big Ben, famous for having a crack. Liberty Bell also, if memory serves(?), cracked. Is there a pattern there somewhere? :) Ned PS for those who like the sound of proper church bells, BBC Radio 4 broadcast the sound of church bells from a different church every Sunday morning...

Hi There, You said that when using your centre drill it wobbled a bit, well there is a tip to overcome this. Put your centre drill in your chuck with the cutting edges horizontal and move your toolpost so that it just touches your chuck plus a thou or two more. What this does is to steady your...

Hi Niels, The CCMT are not as "sharp" as the CCGT ones, the G stands for ground finish. I have not yet tested the tips, as I was waiting for more things to make an order worth the postage. Ned

Hi Niels, The boring bar is a Sandvik S20S-CTFPR-11 and the inserts are Iscar TPGX 221-L. They are both old purchases and, knowing how things have to change, they might not be made these days with the same numbers. I did see some on Fee-pay, but missed them. They are occasionally a few up for...

Hi Niels, Picture of what, exactly? Ned

Hi John, Can't disagree with a word you wrote, :bow: but, we all have different experiences which goes to make life interesting. I hope you pointed out the error of his ways, when using chuck key "extensions". Ned