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After the first run of this engine (post#7) I have had no luck in getting it to sustain a run. Are miniature plugs suitable for propane?

Never had mine running on steam as I do not have a boiler. Found that making the IP eccentric with30 degree separation worked much better than the 15 degrees called out by Stuart. The only way I could get this engine to run in reverse was to make separate eccentrics for the LP cylinder and...

Brian; Thanks . They are at the other end of the road I lived on 40 years ago. They weren't there then. Colin

Brian: Used to live in Puslinch, Where is the Museum? Colin

I have been building this engine since Nov 23 and following raveney's build log so no need to repeat the same here. I did make some changes to suit materials on hand and lack of silver soldering equipment. Cylinder liners and pistons are cast iron without rings or O-rings. Camshaft brackets are...

I have the Igaging DRO's from Busy Bee as X and Y on my mill, and they work fine, have not had any problems. Batteries last fine if you turn off when not using

Erik : FWIW I made the valves from 303 stainless, it machines well. Never had any luck making good springs, have used hardware store assortments with success, but lots of folks wind their own. I made both gears from brass , don't think wear is a factor on small engines A fun engine to build. Colin

Brian: FWIW I made a crankcase for Doug Kelleys Nash 25 engine from 12 pieces of 3/16 cold rolled 1018 steel bolted together then J B Weld caulked the seams from the inside to seal it up. It's not a finished engine yet but the 'case has held up perfectly through numerous drill/ tap and bore...

xander: I built the Snow a while back and soft soldered all joints. I have had problems with getting this engine to run well but none of these are related to soldered joints. Colin

Inspired by raveney's build of this engine using steel instead of pricy brass, I decided to have a go. As I do not have silver soldering equipment or skill, I am building the engine as a "bolt it together" I used 3/16 cold rolled for all parts of the crankcase so that screws could be counter...

I have made adaptors for some of my engines to put in a "one way" bearing on the crank. A shaft of the right dimension and a cheap cordless drill will spin over any thing I've got including a 5 cyl Kinner. Can't see the point of belts and pulleys. Colin

When if ever do you sleep?

Throw away that $@## electronic ign. system and use points and condenser and coil. Will run fine on carb as drawn. Colin

Brian :Try Bearings Canada for one way bearings . They are much cheaper, and mail from Toronto. I got two 3/8 by 1/2 bearings for $35 plus HST plus mail $51.91 total. Google them . (I don' t have any affiliation with them) Colin

raveny: Thanks for the info on the gear. Your experience with the cylinder sort of bears out my greatest fear with this project---- silver soldering. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it Colin

raveny: Do you plan on making your own gears? I am in the process of gathering parts & materials together for the Nash 25 and have not been able to find the part # called out. H 3240 & H3280 Boston Gear. Both do not come up on Boston Gear catalogue or Mc Master Carr. I plan on cutting my own...

Great idea on milling the sides of the spin indexer! Colin

Funny to see a post about the Odds & Ends engine to-day. My Dad built one in 1986 when the magazine artical first came out. It never did run well and Dad moved on to other engines. I made one , mostly to the drawings in1998, the biggest change being that I made it of aluminum instead of steel...

Raveny : Thanks for the inspiration on the Nash. I have been looking at this engine for some time now but have very little experience and no equipment for brazing or welding', so have put it off. Your use of dado's to locate the centre web and sides will allow me to make a bolt together assembly...

Wayne: PM sent