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Here is the kit version: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRtR07otlls&feature=share&list=UUI26O1f6HIFAfDxMFc7cGFw

I have a 60W CO2 laser. I have only tried 3mm so far but it should be fine up to at least 6mm. The cut faces have a slight taper but if I flip one gear the mesh is perfect.

Did some experiments today and dyed acetal gears with Dylon dye. Works great. After 10 minutes in the dye the colour has good penetrations. The gears below are a dark grey and light brown. They are MOD 1 and MOD 0.5 gears cut on my laser.

Here are a couple of engines I just made. Parts are from MDF cut on my laser. At some point I plan to sell kits. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjTtfQvm2r8&list=UUI26O1f6HIFAfDxMFc7cGFw&index=1&feature=plcp

I'll give the drills a try. I only need to go through about 0.5mm brass. If that does not work I might try and make jets with a drilled disc insert. I have some 0.1 sheet and would drill the hole then punch out a disc.

Zephyrin, many thanks for the tips. I may give that a try but a friend has offered to help me make an EDM machine. It may be possible to make it work without a feedback loop. It would use a simple "2 steps forward, 1 step back" code to drive a stepper. I have all the parts needed for that.

Time savers? Don't think we have those in the UK.

Getting drills is not a problem. Not breaking them is. They are extremely fragile at this size.

A gas jet has just one hole. I think you are thinking of the burner. Those I make with ceramic material.

I have thought of EDM but I'm not sure I can get the precision needed. Then of course there is the issue of cost to build the EDM.

I need gas jets in quantity but have not had any luck finding a wholesale source. Making them myself is an option but drilling a 0.2mm hole is an obstacle. For low volume I can turn down to a thin wall and pierce with a sewing needle. It does the job but is a bit hit and miss, not to mention...

Thanks for the recommendations. A 6" DeWalt is around £145 here so outside of my budget. Sadly none of the affordable models have decent tool rests so I will have to fabricate something myself. A couple of really nice grinders were on Ebay and local to me but sadly 3-phase which is not standard...

There are flux/solder products on the market that claim to be able to join copper and brass with alu: http://cupalloys.co.uk/joining-aluminium-c100014.html I agree with Bogstandard - OP does have a bit of an attitude and seems to want everything served on a silver platter. The truth is that...

It's much easier to state a specific application and work from there. What method you use to join metals depends a lot on what it is you want to achieve. Alu can be MIG, TIG and MMA welded with the right equipment. You can also solder alu with specialised flux and solder. However you cannot...

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. With the small grinder it is the motor heating up, not the stone. Even with a small load they heat up quickly. Perhaps mine was just a bit too cheap and nasty. A couple of nice one for sale local to me but they are all 3-phase :(

I love it already. So much better than the Chinese mini-lathe I used to own.

Hi Arnold, I have actually been a member for a long time - so long that I forgot my old username and had to register again! I found that the smaller bench grinders get alarmingly hot very quickly when grinding tool steel. I was wonderring if there was any advantage to the wet stone for...

Thanks, I have ordered a set. In the mean time I'll have to enjoy an oily face. ;)

I have to buy a bench grinder. In the past I have had one of the cheap 150W jobs but will go for something meatier this time. Question is: Would it be a good idea to get one of those wet and dry types? I need it for grinding lathe tools.

I just acquired a ML7 from 1952. It runs nicely with no rumble and no chatter when I take a heavy cut. It does not have sight feed lubricators but cups with wicks in them (pipe cleaners actually). The problem is that when I start up the lathe I get a faceful of oil from the bearing behind the...