Recent content by toolsrul

Don’t know if you are aware of a spin off from Taig called Micro Proto (microproto.com). They have some pretty good deals besides having some slightly advanced machines for sale as well. Easy to deal with and should be able to help you with international shipping. Good luck. Regards, George

Brian, If it wouldn’t be too much of a problem could you email me this drawing in a .dxf file. I’ll make a prototype in a different material just to verify the cam portion configuration. Regards, George

Hi Brian, I have a full 4 axis Taig with Deskcnc software with servos that can easily run a .dxf file as you mentioned. I’d be willing to work with you to narrow down a few possible stumbling blocks. If you can PM me we could work something out without boring the group. Thanks, George

Lynda.com thru your library Possibly free check with your local library Course type instruction

Has anyone made a ceramic mold for aluminum? Looking for a good surface finish out of the mold.

Do a Dura Bar search. Good stuff & consistent in machinability.

Some of the thread tool mfg's. have that info on their websites, Vardex, Kennametal, etc. The multi-thread thread mills usually move 1 pitch in "Z" if the thread length is the same as the tool. If you get a thread mill program with your pitch, hole diameter, etc. I think all you have to do is...

Use these if part won't sit flat on table from #0 to #6 & M1.6 to M3.5.

$425?? Don't know what that means w/o trying it out. They are great machines if taken care of or rebuilt properly. The horizontal portion of the mill takes 5c collets & the B/P M head takes either B&S #7 or a another collet that I cannot remember off hand but the max. end mill is 1/2". Break it...

Andy is "top notch", good quality castings, excellent dwg's. & instructions. Once built it's a very good quality piece of equipment. Had a problem with a part that I machined too deep & it cracked Andy replaced it w/o any problem.

This is what I use & make. Real sensitive feel.

What is normally done is the ends are annealed (softened) then machined then heat treated. If that's not an option try a negative insert with a tough grade of carbide like a Kennametal KC850 & run @ 50 sfm dry. If your finish changes from shiny to dull your part is case hardened & you broke thru...

The software today shows you tool path before you run the actual part, assuming you tell it where your clamps, vises, etc. are located. It's still the same, garbage in garbage out, no matter how much you spend on software. It's virtually impossible to prove out the program the old conventional...

Usually the first thing that gets dull are the corners or edges if it is a square end end mill. That is the weakest part of the end mill, next look at both the sides & the bottom to see if there are any chipped areas. Wear on the bottom would look like a sanded surface maybe .005" to .01" wide...

My wife & I have an understanding & that is we go to dinner twice a week, she goes on Tuesday & I go on Friday.