Recent content by SERCEFLYER

Thanks a lot. I'll try a simple jam nut for now--- if that doesn't work, I'm sure the split threaded bush will! George

Quick question: I need to turn some threads off of a 1 inch 6-32 bolt. What's the best way to hold in a chuck for turning. I though about making a small threaded cylinder to hold the bolt, but I think that machining forces would unscrew the bolt out of the gripping cylinder. Any ideas? Thanks...

Is there any chance that Bob's little beauty could be nominated for the "Engine of the Month?" I think it might encourage others to do such a great job of documenting and sharing. And, use emoticons ;D ;D :bow: :bow: George

Bob, What can I say-- brilliant stuff here!!!! You really should contact your fellow Oz resident, Ron Chernich and tell him about this thread. I think he'd love to display your work on his webbsite, www.modelenginenews.org. This has been a great instruction on building a traditional engine...

Bob, Good point about the card thickness. I found my playing cards to be about 11 thou thick. It's a good idea to have a variety of gaskets so that you can experiment with different port timings. I also made 3 conrods that were different with about a 10 thou range in distance between crank pin...

Beautiful machine!!!! My suggestions for the gaskets: just use a lucky card from an old playing deck. Go to an office supply store and get a circle cutter. There's a good Japanese brand that I use. It's basically a compass with an x-acto blade at the writing end. It's really easy to cut...

Bob, So, have you decided to grind your own needle, or get yourself to a sewing shop and find a darning needle? I love the brass carby!! George

That's one good looking little machine!!!! George

Bob, I agree with Sandy. Don't relieve the con rod-- you might set up stress areas where a crack would begin. Use a small burr on a Dremel tool to relieve and chamfer the inside of the liner. On my engine, I had to Dremel the crankcase flange area, too! Does the compression have a springy...

I'm happy to hear the good news about your wife. I think we'll see a running engine soon.... George

Another way to establish the eccentricity of the crankpin fixture is to use a DI to indicate directly off the outer surface of the fixture. Once the DI shows a deflection (up-and-down) twice the crankpin throw, you are there. Drill and ream away. George

As long as the engine does not get flooded and suffer from "hydrolic lock", aluminum should be ok for the con rod. Nice progress today! What's next? Head? George

Bob, I'm happy to hear that the Mrs. is doing better. Best wishes. George

Yes, I was referring to the David Owen method. I love that you are using traditional laps and techniques. I will be super impressed if your 1st piston/liner results in a runner. I went through at least 3-4 pistons and liners before I got a first pop!!! Jumping ahead a bit: do you plan on...

Maybe a dumb question: what exactly is Dremel paste? Brasso is a polishing compound, right? About the contra-piston: make sure it is a tight fit in the top of cylinder. One way is to create a thin-walled (.030 thick) contra-piston with a 1/2 degree outside taper. This causes the walls to...