I too sometimes have that problem. The longer the tool, the farther from dead center it is. I've considered mounting a drill chuck in a quick change holder. Even if I miss dead center, a short center drill will actually "bore" back to center. Maybe someday...
I built automotive dies in a life past. All sections were doweled for location. Drill and ream only. I've also used "dreamers". After hardening usually went to the Sunnen hone for touch up.
What kind of accuracy requires more?
My approach would be c-drill, 1/4 " drill, 13/32 drill, then ream. I always ream (and tap) with Crisco at slow rpm and back the reamer out with the chuck or spindle stopped. Old school? Works for me.
Btw, the slow speed will accommodate minor chuck runout
Holiday greetings from Florida,
I designed and built my own flame eater. I should have paid more attention to the members that bemoaned their start up problems. I've read in other posts that if all is well I should get and audible "pop" when I turn it over without the burner. At what point in...
I'm wondering about balancing a single cylinder crankshaft. I've "designed" and built a few engines myself . I've always balanced the crank by itself, out of the engine, on roller bearings. I'm building my first flame eater and perhaps a little over-concerned after reading other's accounts of...
20 bucks and you're covered.
Btw, I built my first steam engine on my dads's little Atlas, at 13. I didn't know how to read mics so I made the cylinder first.
Glad someone can use these reducers.
I haven't found a way to private message on this forum (is it me?), so I'll post my email here:
Send me yours, and I'll ship tomorrow... and thank you.