Recent content by homemachinist

That myford's a beaut, hope it goes to a good home.

Sorry to see you leave mate, all the best with your move.

Hello Eldi, pretty much what Jeff said. I have a Sieg SX3 and it can take 1.5-2mm depth of cut with 10mm carbide endmill on 4140 without bogging down, I've added DRO on all axes and it's good for my hobby use. You can look up used machine dealers and they do have decent used Taiwanese mills...

love to sure but not with the 150kg lathe and the 600w motor I'm using! I might be able to push it to 2mm but I suspect the motor will stall beyond that.

I finally ended up finishing and installing the solid tool post mount for the lathe. I should've done this before, I can do roughing passes (S1214) on my bench lathe with 1-1.5mm doc without breaking a sweat.

You can upload / attach files to this thread. I don't have any specific requirements at this stage but it may be useful to others on this forum as well.

Do you have a price list somewhere ? I do this as a hobby so probably not going to be able to spend a lot on drill bits of varying sizes, which is why boring bars for anything more than 10-12mm is attractive.

righto, looking forward to the video when you get it! I've been planning to make one too, might get some time in the shed next week. Great to know that a few YouTubers I watch are close by, Nigel from smallcnclathes channel is based in eastern suburbs as well.

Hello there from Melbourne 👋 Didn't realise you're from Vic. I enjoy watching your videos, especially ones re. pouring cast iron. Did you end up trying Gotteswinter's flexure design for the boring bar ?

Hopefully the final update on this. I've installed the new leadscrew, the run-out or sag at the middle is about 0.07mm which is better than the original. I adjusted the half nuts to make sure there is no change or deflection when the nuts are closed. This along with the new adjustable brass...

An update on this, got a replacement leadscrew from the manufacturer and it's got a bit of run-out or straightness issue as well. I was surprised to find out that rolled or cut leadscrews have straightness tolerance of 0.015"/ft or ~1mm/metre. Machined ones fare better at 0.2-0.4/metre but are...

It's a good suggestion, will do it once I've installed the replacement leadscrew. Cheers

A quick update for posterity: 1. The whiplash or error is due to a combination of bent leadscrew and incorrect alignment of the bearing block at the far right side. I've adjusted the bearing block to improve the whiplash, also still waiting on the leadscrew replacement. Meanwhile I've made...

Thanks Ken. I'll ask around, but in all likelihood (if it's an hour or more of work) the cost to straighten the leadscrew will be more than what I've paid for a replacement ($100 AUD). It's funny 0.2mm run out doesn't sound like a lot, I expected the saddle gibs to be rigid enough to prevent any...

A few updates (tl;dr still an issue) 1. The leadscrew is bent, 0.2mm radial runout at the middle, which would be pushing the saddle up and down, front and back by a fraction of that. 2. It's hard to tell on straight turning of small stock, but more obvious with steep taper turning because of...