Recent content by deadin

Think the wife would mind???:eek: http://bangshift.com/bangshiftxl/watch-a-4000hp-locomotive-get-built-by-hand-in-1928-absolutely-amazing-video/

:o :o :o Considering it usually takes several of the miniature taps for me to successfully tap a hole, I think I had better pass on these...... ;D

Anybody seen this?? http://www.wimp.com/tiniestengine/

Don't know if this has been posted before................... http://www.wimp.com/steamengine/

Don't know if this really belongs on HMEM, but I though it was neat..... http://www.wimp.com/simplestmotor/

I found a shop that can TIG weld it for $20.00. Now I have to decide if it's worth it or not.... :-\

Brian, re your Here's one complete with your Horizontal Twin powering it.. :bow: http://www.youtube.com/user/deadin391#p/a/u/0/6sygYpkqju0

Good questions...... The base metal is forged/milled steel (as in .22 pistol frame). Ideally it should be TIG welded but I don't have access to one. It is not a repair that I plan to actually shoot although it should hold under low powered loads. (It's just that having a crack in the frame...

I will get some more pictures from different angles tonight....... (Got to go manage a "garage sale" today..)

I like the idea of using something to make the backer "non-stick". (When you say "correction fluid", is that the same as "white-out"?) Question--- how to get the backer in place without scraping off the coating as it has to go down on a hole? The brass plug and then bore it out has possibilities...

I have a cracked frame that I need to braze/silver solder. See the pictures below. The crack is ~.017 wide, .200 long and .060 thick. The hole shown is .450. My problem is that I need a way to hold the solder from running out the backside. I was thinking of turning an aluminum "plug" (that the...

You might try making your own..... It's kind of fun and not all that hard. http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/equipt.html

I think the 11/16ths refers to the depth of the cut-away in the interrupted thread.

I read the plans as having the threading as one with the outer shell. It is an interrupted thread that the breechblock (also an interrupted thread) slides into and then rotates 60 deg. to lock. I can't see any way to make it other than as a part of the breech bolster.

Could be the same gun. The plans were originally posted in a 1944 edition of MODEL CRAFTSMAN. I found these in an issue (date unknown) of a model railroad magazine and were posted under the name of S.A. Walter. If it turns out to be the same, I will probably have many questions for you as I get...