tool rests for a bench grinder
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Stoney
There is a plan in the Workshop Practice book No 41 'Grinding,Honing and Polishing'
ISBN 978-185486-252-5.
If you want something more complex there is also a plan in No 38 'Tool and Cutter Sharpening'.
Not sure where you are but the books cost about £7.00 each in the UK and I would say they are good value
John S
There is a plan in the Workshop Practice book No 41 'Grinding,Honing and Polishing'
ISBN 978-185486-252-5.
If you want something more complex there is also a plan in No 38 'Tool and Cutter Sharpening'.
Not sure where you are but the books cost about £7.00 each in the UK and I would say they are good value
John S
This might give you some ideas
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32973&cat=1,43072,45938
and another is in the Nov 1967 issue of Popular Mechanics
Go to http://books.google.com/books?id=RdMDAAAAMBAJ and navigate to the year and month
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32973&cat=1,43072,45938
and another is in the Nov 1967 issue of Popular Mechanics
Go to http://books.google.com/books?id=RdMDAAAAMBAJ and navigate to the year and month
I cobbled a pair of rests together similar to the Veritas rest. No plans--it was all trial-and-error. One thing I'll pass on--make the "table" out of steel. I made mine out of aluminum and they get worn quickly and are not as "slick" as steel. I'm going to remake mine one of these days.
Tin Falcon
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max corrigan
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Tin enjoyed reading through that magazine! even the bits that had nothing to do with model engineeringTin Falcon said:
(it was Aug 1953 by the way) i think the trades description boys would have a field day, with some of the claims there!Regards Max..........
Tin Falcon
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What I thought was great was that the 1967 issue linked above had an ad for the Craftsman Radial Arm saw I just dismantled for scrounged parts (Motor blown, no way to get parts, wasn't worth rewinding/making parts) I got some use out of it... but it was cool to see "Where it came from" LOL.
Rudy Kouphouts "Grinding lathe tools" includes a plan for a grinder tool rest that looked pretty simple and effective.
It's rentable from SmartFlix ( www.smartflix.com ) for $10. I didn't copy the plans when I had it but probably should have. Slow paced vid but lots of good info. (I watched it at 1.6X.. LOL, made it a little more bearable. ;-P)
Rudy Kouphouts "Grinding lathe tools" includes a plan for a grinder tool rest that looked pretty simple and effective.
It's rentable from SmartFlix ( www.smartflix.com ) for $10. I didn't copy the plans when I had it but probably should have. Slow paced vid but lots of good info. (I watched it at 1.6X.. LOL, made it a little more bearable. ;-P)
L
Lew_Merrick_PE
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Stoney,
I took a piece of 8 X 16, 1/2 inch plate and notched it to clear my grindstones (call it 1/8" clearance). I made it pivot such that when the plate is "level," the top of the plate is radial (square) to my (8 inch) stones. The plate is positioned such that it is tangent to my stones at the upper limit of the pivot. The pivot itself has 1/2 inch shoulder screws for the axle and I made "sleeves" for them such that when they are tight, the table is locked in position. I milled the outside edge straight and dialed that in to the grinder's spindle. I mounted a (round-bar) linear bearing set below the table so I can add "attachments" and have them travel parallel to the grinder's spindle.
When I am working "offhand" on my grinder, I have a full-width table to base things on. I have miter gages that travels on the linear bearing set for work of that precision. My miter gage set includes: standard pivot miter gage for rectangular work, vee-block miter gage for round work, and an "adjustable feed" gage cobbled together out of an old (on/off) magnetic base for feeding small pieces into the grinder. Because of the geometry (and two "hinges" in the positioning of the various gages), I can just "swing" my parts towards me to dip them in my "dunk pan" (an old bread pan that sits within reach on my stand) to cool them off. The linear bearing bushings for each of my "gages" has been slotted and relieved such that I can lock it in any given (width-wise) position with a thumbscrew.
I don't use my "gages" anywhere near as much as I thought when I built this unit. (I tend to do such work on my toolbit grinder flat-face set-up.) The mag-base "gage" (faced with UHMW where it contacts the table) gets used more both of the other "gages" combined and may be the neatest feature of this approach. I would probably use the gages more on this were it not for the fact that I have had a toolbit grinder mounted on the other end of my "grinder bench."
I took a piece of 8 X 16, 1/2 inch plate and notched it to clear my grindstones (call it 1/8" clearance). I made it pivot such that when the plate is "level," the top of the plate is radial (square) to my (8 inch) stones. The plate is positioned such that it is tangent to my stones at the upper limit of the pivot. The pivot itself has 1/2 inch shoulder screws for the axle and I made "sleeves" for them such that when they are tight, the table is locked in position. I milled the outside edge straight and dialed that in to the grinder's spindle. I mounted a (round-bar) linear bearing set below the table so I can add "attachments" and have them travel parallel to the grinder's spindle.
When I am working "offhand" on my grinder, I have a full-width table to base things on. I have miter gages that travels on the linear bearing set for work of that precision. My miter gage set includes: standard pivot miter gage for rectangular work, vee-block miter gage for round work, and an "adjustable feed" gage cobbled together out of an old (on/off) magnetic base for feeding small pieces into the grinder. Because of the geometry (and two "hinges" in the positioning of the various gages), I can just "swing" my parts towards me to dip them in my "dunk pan" (an old bread pan that sits within reach on my stand) to cool them off. The linear bearing bushings for each of my "gages" has been slotted and relieved such that I can lock it in any given (width-wise) position with a thumbscrew.
I don't use my "gages" anywhere near as much as I thought when I built this unit. (I tend to do such work on my toolbit grinder flat-face set-up.) The mag-base "gage" (faced with UHMW where it contacts the table) gets used more both of the other "gages" combined and may be the neatest feature of this approach. I would probably use the gages more on this were it not for the fact that I have had a toolbit grinder mounted on the other end of my "grinder bench."
Take a look at this one. No drawing but I was able to build one from the photo and it words great. http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/grinder_guide/grinding_rest-e.htm
Mel
Mel
