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That is a clever idea and very well executed.

That looks pretty close kin to the small Hardinge lathes they are now selling in the U.S. . I don't remember who make that lathe for them but, a fellow I know bought a lathe made by the supplier to Hardinge. Seems like it was about $5k or so but, it was a 16 inch. I don't think the 12 inch he...

In the world I live in (production machine shop), we would sometimes part off in reverse for the simple reason the part would not try to lift off and hit us. Instead it sends it down into the chip tub of the machine. For the most part we don't do that anymore. NCs have taken over... btw, some...

I have never made a mistake in the shop... I have only improved on what the engineer should have designed. :big: Some times I have found when I knew what I was doing I was doing it wrong... Yep... take a coffee day... walk around the shop... or building... or county... and have at it again...

That is assuming the endmill is center cutting and you are not planning on using the hole for a center. Back before rocks they would drill a hole then use a 60deg tool to put in the center for the lathe... a two step process. Lot's of ways to unwrap a feline...

I had been running lathes in the shop for several years... same make and type... Boss put me on a new lathe... same instructions as you had... Well, years of pulling up on the lever to disengage the feed.... this lathe was down to disengage... Yep... pulled the part right out of the chuck...

That is also a very coarse magnet... just sayin... that means the magnetic field is widely dispersed and is taller... kind of like coarse stitching in fabric, not really good for thin material or low contact material. Imagine each one of those bars on the magnet as 1/2 of a clamp.... you need...

Well, you can do it that way... I usually run my compound in until it binds against the back of the compound, In short I jam lock it. On my lathe there is a carriage lock nut just to the right of the cross slide... I lock my carriage.... Never had a problem with anything move as long as my tool...

I really hate to chime in here, considering so much good information has been posted. I am smelling three things to check. Lathe tool and shaper tools are close but not quite the same (well, some shaper tools are way different). It sounds like the tools may have the wrong geometry. Something...

If the material is clean and true you can set the rest in front of the tool. If not you set the rest behind the tool. by this I mean no more than .015 behind, or as close as you can. Some lathes have square or roller guides, they work well, lots of lathes have round guides... they are more of an...

RPM does sound high... a usable formula is (CS x 4)/Dia=RPM I prefer a tool with more shear for aluminum, tmp style. I have seldom had luck plowing with the tool tip. I prefer to have the tool tip run a little behind unless I am going to a shoulder. But that is just me.

So, the jist of what I am hearing is that the handle is used to run the lathe by hand power. It seems to me that this would create some very low feed rates. I suppose with HSS and light cuts it would work. My lathe is a little iffy on the half nut, I may just have to try this. Thanks.

Okay. I am .... ??? confused... to say the least. I have seen a couple of pictures here and mentions of hand cranks on lathes to be used for threading... My lathe has an electric motor ;D and my power bill is paid :o I was also taught never to leave a chuck key in the spindle for safety...

Sorry to hear that the Australia dropped the Death Penalty, too bad that criminals have not done the same. But, ain't that always the way. ??? I will hold my peace until we hear how the fire was caused. Man made, arson can mean several things. Years ago we had a nasty fire in Washinton that was...