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Thanks for sharing your knowledge of the ML Midge. Im really glad to hear you have one running well. I took the engine apart carefully and was happy to see the tapered contra piston I made per the Chernich site had no blackening on the upper part of its taper. so that makes me feel it was...

Today was my second day of break-in on a compression ignition engine I machined and assembled. Its the ML Midge engine. I noticed some exhaust gunge coming out where the compression screw enters the cylinder head (see the two photos). I was not expecting that. It must mean there is some...

I agree with the formula. my question is how long can I store that mix? Right now I have 80 ml stored in a glass jar that is about 450 ml size. I put the jar into a box to keep it dark. im afraid the ether will evaporate too much into the air inside the jar, etc.

thanks for reminding me about peroxide formation. If I could get a couple of months of storage that should be more than enough. The smallest metal can I could find is 16 oz (473 ml) but I was hoping to just make 100 ml batches at least for now. I guess once I get settled I could make up a...

it sounds like the fuel you are describing is for a glow plug engine but Im not sure. Im asking about compression ignition diesel fuel. so this is for "vintage" engines I guess. but Im glad to hear you have been able to store fuel in both plastic and metal.

I found a great webpage about how to mix fuel and techniques to start up small diesel compression ignition engines. But Im not sure of how long the mixed fuel can be kept and still be effective. Does it go bad after one day, one week, or what - stored in a metal tin can with lid ? here is the...

i noticed that too. Some of my sketches were flipped relative to the work and I did have to be careful

Here is a detailed look at what I'm writing up to machine various parts for the engine. In this case I'm working on the "Venturi" for the needle valve assembly. The ML Midge prints also show a rudimentary spray bar that doesn't have a valve seat, so the modelenginenews.org site suggest...

Nice job on the boll aero! Can you tell me what type of lap you used on the cylinder liner? I tried making one that is split by sawing and has a jack screw but the lap opened up too much for my liking after I sawed it.

Olli, I finally got to this point with the ML Midge cylinder liner. I made the lap from brass and when I saw cut the slit I found the lap had opened up quite a bit. So maybe I didnt do a very good job sawing, but I tried to be careful. I might remake the lap out of aluminum, which I think is...

I understand what you mean about a pre-written set of instructions being too bothersome. I think it would be hard to create a general solution since people all have different tools and preferences. My challenge is just getting some basis for the suggested order of operations. I just am too...

I cant say I take notes on the solid modeling but I do recognize that sometimes you have to model a part at least 70% of the way to figure out how you should have started. Mostly solidworks but some fusion 360 too

Im attaching my step by step process for machining the cylinder head of the ML Midge. Maybe Im too new but I really dont know how I could make it through the work without staying organized. Do these order of operations seem the best? Does anyone else have a write up like this for diesel...

Maybe its just up to the individual preference but I have seen a few articles describing the order of operations for machining cylinder fins. In some cases it looks like the holes used for bolting it down to the crankcase are put in after the fins are turned and sometimes its described as being...

I think you are correct. in the original work written up in AMI it was all metric. the exhaust was 3 mm diameter. So that is 0.118, not 0.120 (drill #31). Also, the top of the inlet hole was at 3 mm, so that would be a theoretically perfect line up of the bottom of the exhaust and the top of...

yes there is something not quite right about the 0.004 inches. I think the best thing to do is to lower the position of the inlet in the cylinder so there is not a position where the inlet opening is above the top of the piston. Also, I like your idea of lengthening the conrod a bit. I did...

thanks I was not able to find a "wayback portal" but this seems to help

Ive been studying techniques for machining crankcases, crankshafts, and other components for months here. In the last few days I noticed it was no longer available. Anyone know whats up? I dont know how to find it on a "wayback machine" either. Help?!

im focused on the positional accuracy of the hole. it seems that drill, bore, then ream would be the most conservative approach. I believe the reaming would address the surface finish

thanks for the info. I do plan on lapping the crankshaft but I havent seen recommendations to lap the crankcase.